One good/bad thing about those motors is that the distributor is on the front of the engine, behind the water pump. Good because it means you won't have any firewall to distributor clearance issues, bad because of greater chance for water or mud to get in.

Barts Ranch, about a mile north of the Junction on 441 is the house. The Junction has not changed much in the last 50 years. Just Ranch and a few gas stations. Not in Military but working here.

The distributor location was a big factor in choosing this engine. By what I have read, the dist. is fairly waterproof. It is vented into the intake manifold.

Ed

They're not waterproof at all, and SOME of the later model ones were vented into the intake. It's a simple mod to do to a non vented one also.

Generally speaking Optisparks suck pretty hard. Especially when it comes time to replace them. ~$300 bux IIRC from my 4th gen camaro days. IF it were me, I would ditch that opti, and use a DIS coil pack setup. THAT IS WATERPROOF. Soild State, sealed in Resin.

Take some pics. U got lots of work to do.

I was going to put in an aftermarket dist. they have come down to $239 - 329 by my checking. some advertise o-ring sealing. I will check into the coilpaks, too.

I won't be starting till I get the house. about 1 1/2 months away. The trans is with a friend to rebuild & replace the tail section. Pondering np231-np241 vs D300.
I already have a super rebuild kit for the 4l60.w/ extra clutches, corvette servo & some other parts.

NP231CHD = Overkill, but fits. (Beefiest NP231 made)
NP241C = Enormous, and Overkill. Very large output splines..not very compatable with Mitsu stuff.
D300 = Heavy, Unecessary, expensive, and no gains.



= OBD2 computer to control the transmission and engine which adds quite a bit of expense, OR stand alone ecu to control the trans which adds the same expense.

I recomend sell your 4l60E rebuild kit unless you are going to look for a 96 and up Vortec 5.7, and are going to run a stock ECU, and wiring(which I also recomend) 96 and Up ECU's have to be sent off to be flashed to remove the VATS stuff, so they will run at all.

You've got alot to research, and alot of work ahead of you.

I Personally would not spend my time swapping in a 4.3 v8 when I could have swapped in a 5.7 for the same ammount of work.

That Baby LT1 is not going to like your Hotcam.

I already have the D300 & kinda like them. We will see.

The 4l60 came in the car & I do have the ECM with underhood & under dash harnesses, along with the column. It's all OBD I. I was thinking about getting CATS or one of the other editing programs. I am already pretty versed in Tunercat.

I have researched cams & you are right about the hotcam. There are some milder ones that are suggested for the engine. Or, I might just leave it stock w/ flowing intake & exhaust & some tuning.

When I get it all, I need to measure it all for DS legnth. I am thinking about a rad in front of the support.

Also have to figure PS pump pressures, A/C compatibility, aftermarket fuel pump, mounts, wiring ( easiest for me) & reprogramming.

Ed

This is fine, but you will have to buy an adapter, and that adds length, and price.


Car 4L60? If so plan on a complete teardown to swap the tail shaft. Must be a 93/4/5 if it is an OBD1 4L



Yep. Tunercat, and an LM1 will get youi all srt up, but if you leave it stock, just stick the old ecm in there, and call it good.



GOOD plan. Glad you came to your senses on that one.



Get the drivetrain installed, and then measure for driveshafts. The radiator will have to move foward, and so will the condensor. All a PITA to re-set up.



PS pump pressures. Can't help you. My mitsu pump was angry with my GM pump. My solution was to ditch the mitsu steering setup completly.

Fuel pump is easy. External on the floor of the truck above the tank. Mounts are DIY also. Flatbar, and round stock, or modify factory Gm mounts. Wiring... Thats as big of a monster as you make it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />