You can take up some of the steering box slack with the adjustment screw on top of the steering box. put the steering in straight ahead, loosen the lock nut on the adjusting screw, and tighten until the slack in the steering wheel shaft is almost all gone. If you get it too tight, it won't self-center on the road coming out of a corner, and you'll have to loosen it a hair.

Next most likely slack spot is the idler arm shaft bushings, which are quite easy to replace.

Next is the pitmann arm ball joint.

My front end guy puts a floor jack under the lower a arm and lifts just enough to unload the tire, then uses a long pry bar under the tire to lightly move the suspension joints. Also possible to lie underneath and look closely at each joint as somebody flexes the steering side to side about 1/8 turn each way. A worn idler arm shaft bushing will show as a rocking of the shaft. Other joints show slop in the 1mm range when moved. Another check is to compress the tie rod ends, pitmann end, ball joints, and idler arm end with a big pair of arc joint pliers, and measure the stud height compressed. Take off the pliers and measure the uncompressed height. A diff of 1mm or more is worn out.

Also check wheel bearing slop at that mileage by wiggling the wheel on the spindle, grabbing at 3-9 o'clock. No slop should be felt.

Ball joints on these seem to last a long time, as do a arm bushings, if you lube it right.