I'm going with a 1G MAS airbox that does not have the starion's oil/ air separator. Do I need one? Where should the oil drain to? Do I need to add a barb to drain it to the pan and if so where on the pan is the best location?

Oh man! I wish I could remember all that I learned about this...
I went with a simple air filter do-hickey mounted to the nipple on the valve cover and don't worry about it. I've been told that you can plumb the separator in with no problems. I also found one source that instructed me to build a "road-draft pipe". Evidently, older cars had them. In what I read, They are the reason that, back in the day, you'd see a dark line down the middle of the lane on the highway. What it is, is a tube that runs from the nipple on the valve cover, down to a low area in the engine bay. Just low enough for it to see some wind as the car moves. The end of the pipe is cut at an angle to create a small amount of suction as the car moves along at speed. A small amount of filter media can be gently stuffed into the pipe in a spot that can be serviced at a later date to catch the tiny bit of oil and keep it off the ground.

During my build, I had one local mechanic tell me that I could just run the separator line back into the nipple on the airbox and loop it...
WRONG!!! It pressurized the system and forced oil into the backside of the turbo. Talk about smoke! I had the ultimate James Bond rig until I figured it out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I tee'd mine into the turbo oil return for the liquid side. Make sure it's all downhill...

One of the better dumb'n'easy mods is to open up the crankcase around #3&4. The block casting retains some obsolete "walls" that isolated the volume under one of those pistons (3, AFAIK) to make it into a poor man's secondary air pump in an old emissions scheme. This (a) can spatter some oil into the crank path, and (b) make for some real funny crankcase pulses for the pcv system.

What if I put a tee fitting into the dipstick tube?

Yes, but the stick seal rubber goes quite a way down the tube, so you'd have to put the tee low. Seems easier to cut the turbo return, use a copper plumbing tee of that hose size, then use solder bushings to reduce the diameter of the branch run to use a nipple for the seperator liquid return. I did the same thing after I put the stinkin' motor in the truck with the old, non turbo steel water bypass line, the one without the fitting for the turbo water return, and you can't pull that line with the motor in the truck. I teed into the lower radiator hose.

I found it was very easy to remove the drain fitting from a Starion pan and braze it into the Raider oil pan.

The factory seperator system is well designed and provides crank venting, even under boost. The inlet side of the turbo is at a lower pressure than atmospheric since there will always be a drop across the air cleaner.

That said, I just duplicated the factory setup fom my turbo 2.6 and its worked great. I mounted the seperator can on its own bracket.

I do want to get rid of the factory rubber flex hose to the air box and add in a turbo bypass valve for part throttle operation.

Kevin C