Just got back from the dealership where I got my oil changed--good price--coupon.

They said I needed a valve cover gasket replacement ($569) as I have an active leak. My oil level does go down a little bit but no big leaking problem.

Also my front brake pads are worn and I need a wheel bearing repack ($513).

Do those costs sound reasonable? I imagine the valve cover gasket replacement would be a little out of my league, but I know there are places on this site that describe the wheel bearing repack in detail.

Thank you for your help.

Brad

Hey Brad both these things are a pain in the butt and the big part of the prices you are being quoted is labor time. Brake pads cost $50, the wheel bearing nut/gaskets are like $10 for everything. I also was able to get all the valve cover gaskets (spark plug donuts and grommets too) along with all of the intake gaskets for less than $100.

I would suggest to take it in if you don't have other transportation or if your time is worth a lot. You might find something needing attention (scored wheel bearings? decide to rebuild brake calipers?) and could have to wait for parts, go find parts, etc.

Both jobs are essentially taking it apart and putting it back together. They will take a LONG time and parts can be frustrating. You might have to buy some tools, like a torque wrench, axle nut socket, and brass punches. Patience is your best friend here.

But if you DIY you can also save some cash if you plan ahead - for just the cost of parts you can replace brake rotors, rebuild your calipers, reshim the valve clearance, clean the throttle body and change all the intake gaskets, etc - since you will have these all apart anyway. And you will probably do a better job than the shop if you go by the book and use dealer parts, for instance you will know you spent twenty cents on the hub gasket so a ten year old piece of paper is not going to let water in. Even the dealer techs cut corners.

Brake pads are VERY easy to change (about the same as changing a tire). Nearly all the labor involved in that quote is for the wheel bearings.

If you're going to have the valve cover gaskets replaced, you should also have the valves checked/adjusted while its apart. Most of the labor involved in checking the valves is just getting to them. The valve check itself pretty quick.

Both those quotes are on the high side, but that is to be expected from a dealership...

Hey guys, thank you for the information. I actually did the brake pads last night because the dealership said I was down to 1 mm thickness and the safe minimum was 2 mm. When I took them off there appeared to be about 1/8" or a little more left. So I could have waited until at least the weekend.

I figure it will have to be "torn" apart shortly to get the wheel bearings repacked. At that time I will get the rotors turned, or is it better to get them replaced? They have not been turned as far as I am aware, but I got the truck at 60,000 miles.

Really enjoy this forum.

Brad

When you take them in to git turned, inspect them over carefully. The machine shop should be able to tell you the thickness of the rotors and if it will be the minimum safe thickness after turning. It will be yer call then. Even new rotors need to be turned after they are bolted to the hub to make sure they are true.

Wheel bearings are pretty easy to do. Do you have a 2WD or 4WD? I guess you have the factory service manual to guide you through the process?

Yes, I do have a FSM for the 4-wheel T-100. It helped me with a couple of things. Fixed the starter issue and cleaned the MAP sensor.

Also, I have a used set of Aisin hubs I bought a few years ago from Surlynkid (I think, if I am wrong he certainly will correct me) that I just haven't had time to put on.
Now with the front bearing repack, they will get put on.

Have a great evening. Brad

I disagree that new rotors need to be cut. Maybe this is standard practice with chinese rotors that are popular now - I will not buy these - but quality rotors should be straight and balanced when you open the box.

You MUST clean the hub with an emery cloth and you MUST incrementally torque the rotor bolts in a criscross pattern. If you mount the hub and load the bearing then measure runout, the rotors are crap or they were mounted improperly.

I dont like cutting rotors at all (once they are imperfect the metal has changed) but since it's a wheel-bearing job to change them it's tempting to cut them. But it is only delaying the inevitable.

Just got a coupon from Toyota for a timing belt change of $269. Actually thinking about having them do it since they have to take the valve covers off and it needs a valve adjustment anyway. $500 seems high for valve cover gaskets.

Brakes - they definitely are much easier on the later model trucks... I'm not looking forward to replacing the rotors on my T... not at all.

I would not recommend turning the rotors unless you have brake vibration/pulsation or they are severely grooved. Definitely wouldn't turn new ones! Turning them when its not needed is a waste of money and rotor life.
New pads won't seat quite as quickly on used (smooth) rotors, but its really not that big a deal in my experience.

Replacing the rotors is no big deal. You don't have to do anything with the bearings except reset the preload, but you might as well also repack them while you're in there, which is messy. The "front end maintenance" articles in the /toyota/maintenance part of 4x4wire has some good info.


Timing belt replacement doesn't require removing the valve covers (if that's what you were thinking). It is much less labor-intensive, which is why it is so much cheaper. It takes me pretty much all day to do valve checks by myself, but only a couple of hours to do a timing belt.

Dang - didn't know that about the timing belt. Oh well.

Definitely will never turn these rotors - they are junk. I'm picking up a friends spare IFS hubs and bolting on a set of Powerstop rotors and new bearings at the same time. Figure it would be easier and faster than doing an R&R...