Turning drums & rotors is not a must when replacing shoes or pads. That's a myth, and it'll cost you money and performance.

If a drum or rotor is in bad shape (scored, etc) replace it.

Very few, if any, of the turning machines are capable of turning down a drum or rotor with anything akin to accuracy. Take a rotor off, remount it on the machine, and recut, you'll promptly see what I mean.

Because these machines are inaccurate, they cut unevenly. You get inconsistent thicknesses of the rotor/drum as a result. This creates an effective warpage, and inconsistent flexing of the metal. You lose braking from this, sometimes quite appreciably.

Even if the turning is done accurately, you get a thinner rotor or drum. It can't take the heat saturation as well, and is weaker and more prone to flexing.

Many of the shops set the cut rate far too fast on the machine, giving you a nicely ridged rotor or drum. You lose braking performance and eat up shoes and pads and a result.

With new pads and shoes there can be some bedding in difficulties with previous contamination of the rotor or drum. This can be easily rectified by sanding the rotor or drum. You cannot clean the bedding material in the rotor or drum with a solvent wipe.

Gotcha...

We used an ammco (ammaco?)brake machine, and the cut was done very slowly. Took off maybe 2 thousands of an inch iirc (somewhere around that) with only 2 passes on each drum.

If this situation continues I will be new drums and shoes as they are obviously to far gone. For now it seems ok though..

I have bigger fish to fry with getting my driveshafts balanced anyways..

Still gotta chip in. If you did a finish cut of a couple of thousands and ran the cutter on the slow cut option and had a strap on the drum, the result, unless the drum is NG, is a good round finish. Same thing for rotors as long as they are vented ones. Unvented rotors have a horrible reputation of flexing, especially if the inside and outside cuts were done unequally. New shoes / pads on old unturned drums / rotors lead to glazing, heat cracking and soft pedal until they reseat. Vice versa too. Sounds like FT has had bad experiences, probably due to inferior products or people. These pieces have to be round, true and have to have proper tension springs. You cannot use non round, non true parts and get a good result.

Would be fun to hash this over a couple of beers with Foxtrapper..................

How's it holding up? It's been a couple days.

Waiting on the driveshaft shop to get back to me, they have had it since tuesday and they called telling me they would get to it by thurs (its a really small shop). If they dont call me by tommorow at 3 ill give them a buzz.

As for the brakes, I still dunno. The fronts are brand new. Calipers, rotors, pads, etc so it aint them. The rears are where I feel that grind/vibrate. After I sanded them down and took it on a few rides all over i stil felt grind but no vibrate.

However when you first get in and drive it and hit the brakes hard-the truck stops but wont release the brakes properly. If you get on the gas without waiting a few seconds you can feel them unlock. Once they warm up it wont do that anymore..I think the drums are to far gone, we turned them 2 passes but I dont think they have anything left to them.

I mean the pads were new about 500 miles ago, the rear wheel cylinders only have about 1,000 miles, the rest of the components seemed fine when we did it. I am thinking the drums are to far gone or the wheel cylinders just arent working right.

Course, it could be that danged LSPV not working right, but if it wasnt-it wouldnt go away, be a constant thing..