Thanks Ted, makes sense.
Sounds like with a stock head* and cam and springs, they should work dandy then?

Anybody ever open up the head to make sure enough flows?




*stock for now, we have not put a straight edge to it yet... part of me hopes the head is damaged and I just HAVE to use one of your ported larger valve heads. That part of me is not in close proximity to my wallet however.

>>>*I have been accused of opening up a few..Tod, too.

Typically for folks running foot to the floor in competition, things like that.

My feeling are the stock ports are already too big, there are a few places where the flow can be smoothed out and the affects of reversion corrected.

I would say that 99% of users will find either the stock head or mild upgrade to a StreetRV version as the best choice...*EB

We talkin' intake ports, or oil passages here? I was wondering about opening up the oil passage a bit around the head stud.

But you do have me lusting over a hot head and cam. The truck will periodically be pulling a Starcraft 10/RT popup camper, and a 650cc dirtbike in the bed.

I hope. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

5.29s and 33x10.50s may help a bit here.

>>>*Oh...I was talking about opening up the intake and exhaust ports, that is always fun.

*PIA, too, sensitive little critters. I know, after porting Chevy heads for maybe 25 years I ported my first 22R head and it wouldn't get out of it's own way.

I bet I ruined 20 of them figuring out that this job is NOT one for amatuers. Now the 20R, that one is round. Just make it bigger and even.

The 22RE head is not only NOT round, but under that intake valve is the swirl ledge that is so important if you don't want to run around at 4000 RPM up all the time.

Yep. PIA so we ask LOTS of questions before we even do an OffroadRV. It's hard to explain to someone seeking more power that the head actually does make more, you are just going too slow...*LOL**...

On the oil hole in the head? Don't go drilling there, instead if the clearence needs relieved I just carefully file a flat spot on the side of the stud, there is plenty of strength there. Or if a lathe is handy turn it down maybe .015-.020" or so.

I used my crank polishing stand the couple of times I did that. I went through a half dozen belts but it worked...

*Made Tod crabby, the belts are about $5 each... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

I see you want to haul stuff, so a StreetRV with a nice 268C and a zero to plus .007" deck hieght quench will drag that stuff around pretty nice..If you ever do order one, tell Tod you want to haul, he can change the bowl angles and move 3-4 ft lbs to the lower end torque...Of course if you can't quite go fast enough to get a ticket, tell him that, too... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />...*EB

Up here in the thin air, you gotta spin to go anyway, so more go is good.
Thanks, EB!

Did you get another truck, or is this your son's?

Cause if it's new, we need pics, ya know.

It was going to be my younger son's, but frankly the 2.7 Taco auto is becoming wearying. Not much power, lousy mileage unless driven extremely conservatively, too long for off road without some major work... so I talked him into it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

The 93 regular cab is kinda ugly - no dents, but the repaint has sun faded. Metallic gray, not a bad color. It is a std. cab, but it is also paid for. And I totally understand everything in it, and it is stronger than a Taco.

No a/c though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />