Hey Everet - which model of TruSpeed box did you get? They don't list one specifically for the Sportage. But I figure they still sell one that will work. And they aren't selling for $40 on ebay anymore... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> The Yellow Box still sells for $100. Will that one work with the Sportage? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Well, I don't know what the one I bought was for...just bought it and put it on.
The following information is on the white sticker in the photo in my previous post. Serial# 103367-B Type:B Date of MFG: WI 803.
There is a toll free tech support: 18005514955.

I don't know if the yellowbox would work but you might call them and see.

If you are on a budget, you might try the Cyberdyne 9901 Speedometer Calibration Box
at less than $50 from SUMMIT RACING.I haven't tried it but it sounds like it would work.
Keep us informed on what you do.
Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I 2nd londarts quick-splice warning. They're good for between a few months to as long as 3 years depending on the moisture and how much load is going through the connections. Water likes to stay in tight spaces and when you apply electricity to it, the water conducts and as a result, begins to corrode with the metal. I learned you can actually make hydrogen with water and non touching metals laying in the water with electricity (8-12v DC). The gas bubbles off the metal and floats to the surface. Neat stuff. I tried it once in a rubbermaid container and then used a torch to ignite the gas on the water surface.. It pops. Anyway, was just reminded of that. May be able to extend the life of those quick connects if you load them up with die-electric grease before folding them up. That way there's no oxygen/moisture able to get in the connections. Would probably greatly reduce corrosion if not stop it all together. Glad to see Lonnie still on here (= Was expecting to see you gone after you sold your sporty.

Just got off the phone with Superlift's tech support. They were able to cross-ref the info gathered from the sticker on the box and confirmed it is model #33002. The guy said, based on the info, that it was sold as a Jeep module. But he also said that they only have 3 module types. So the vehicle-type isn't critical, just the model number. So #33002 is the one for the Sporty! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> Thanks Everet!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

On a related note, I have been trading emails with the folks at Yellow Box. They think their 2-wire module will also work with the Sporty - but only if the second wire on the VSS is a ground wire (i.e. 1 signal wire + 1 ground wire). Anyone have the answer on that one??? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

3 wires from the VSS. +,-, and signal
Everet <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

OK, I bit the bullet and ordered the TruSpeed box made by Superlift. I picked it up on sale at http://www.4wheelparts.com/. It was only $200 plus tax. They have a store in Sacramento. So I paid for it there and will pick it up when it arrives by freight. No rush though, because I have my Sporty stripped of bumpers (and license plates) for the time being... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Let us know how the adjustment goes.

Logansportage <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

OK, I installed the TruSpeed box last week and it works perfectly!!! The install was not as easy as it should have been. But that is because about half of the wires between the ECU and the center console on the passenger-side floorboard were cut away and spliced from their respective connectors by a previous owner. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" /> So I had to root through a "bird's nest" of wires to find the blue+black-stripe-types. Fortunately, there are only 2. I figured out which one fed the speedometer by cutting one and going on a short test-drive. It turned out to be the second wire. I wired the box into the VSS line and tapped the power and ground into the cigarette lighter (mine is powered with the key/ignition... and it was the easiest to find and access). The first test-drive told me I wired the box backwards in the VSS splice. But that was a simple fix. I had a working speedo on the next run, and I could adjust the speed on-the-fly with the calibration key (included with the calibrator). Since I'm only running one set of tires right now, I calibrated both switch positions the same, using the speed reading on my GPS as my speed reference. The box comes with a set of sticky-backed velcro strips. So once I had it dialed-in, I mounted it on top of the control box under the ashtray, with the switch facing to the rear of the vehicle. That worked out well because I can pull out the ashtray and flip the switch, or pull the box out through the opening to adjust the calibration. I'd post some pics. But the wiring is a mess on my ride, as noted. So use Everett's pics as a reference. Even though it costs $200 (US), it works, is easy to install and I think its $$$ well-spent... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />