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Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: torquemonster] #880891 04/20/08 11:48 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
asmTdi Offline OP
Need a Spot
does the 4M40 2800 engine and gearbox just fit into the previous models? i would like to put it in my 93 XP which has the 4D56...
pros and cons please......

asad


1993 Pajero Xp LWB 2.5TDiC
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: asmTdi] #880892 04/20/08 05:14 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 200
Glock24 Offline
Wheeler
In theory yes, but you'll have to fabricate engine and gearbox mounts.


'98 Galloper II Exceed 2.5TDI LWB 5sp Manual 5.29 Diffs
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: asmTdi] #880893 04/20/08 05:31 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 113
4ePajero Offline
Wheeler
Quote
does the 4M40 2800 engine and gearbox just fit into the previous models? i would like to put it in my 93 XP which has the 4D56...
pros and cons please......

asad


4m40 (2800) does NOT bolt onto 4d56-compatible transmissions.

4m40-compatible transmissions are considerably bulkier and longer than those for the 4d56.

... thus new mounts, cross-member and drive shafts. Also new body hole for levers.


Don't ascribe to malice anything that can be adequately explained as stupidity!
Pajero LWB Gen1 3.2 Di-D TD Engine
33" Bridgestone D694s
2" Lift
Front Runner Rack
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: 4ePajero] #880894 04/20/08 07:02 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
asmTdi Offline OP
Need a Spot
wow thats quite a lot of work. Thought i could atleast use the drive shaft and retain old body holes.. Does the console need altering? How is the power and fuel economy compared to the 2.5. Is it worth all the hassle? No engine control modules here right? We get engines quite freely here in bangladesh and both are available so as a last resort i'll need to change it if i cant calibrate pump or get the power up in my 100k km engine.


1993 Pajero Xp LWB 2.5TDiC
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: asmTdi] #880895 04/20/08 08:18 PM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 200
Glock24 Offline
Wheeler
Unless you have invested a lot in the body, I don't think it's worth it. Could be better to get a vehicle already with the 4M40, unless that gets too expensive, or unless you get the engine for free as you say and you like tinkering <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

You get 125hp and 292Nm vs 100hp and 245Nm in the 4D56, both with turbo and intercooler.

I've heard the 4M40 is a little less fuel hungry than the 4D56.

4M40s have an ECU, probably the earlier ones didn't.

The good thing is that if you also get the transmission, you'll upgrade to SuperSlect.


'98 Galloper II Exceed 2.5TDI LWB 5sp Manual 5.29 Diffs
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: Glock24] #880896 04/20/08 11:01 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 401
Pajerist Offline
Mudrunner
I've heard the 4M40 is not so reliable as 4D56 is.


Fight for Right to drive from Right!
www.ivoac.ca

Stay away from Nic's Garage at 120 West 1st Ave in Vancouver BC!!!

Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: Pajerist] #880897 04/21/08 06:48 AM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
asmTdi Offline OP
Need a Spot
Quote
I've heard the 4M40 is not so reliable as 4D56 is.


Yes I have heard that too..apparently the pump is a monster to set.. what rpm should a stock 2.5 open its turbo? 2k or 2.5k?


1993 Pajero Xp LWB 2.5TDiC
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: asmTdi] #880898 04/21/08 04:05 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 372
spence121 Offline
Mudrunner
In regards to your stuck sunroof question, the answer is probably that the stamped metal that holds the glass in place is likely rusted. My sunroof was also stuck and once I pushed it back while holding the button it broke free and opened. I found that it was as I mentioned above. I checked it out on Mitsubishiparts.com and a whole assembly from the the states was almost one thousand dollars. This included everything though, including the motor. I chose to take my sunroof apart and as ugly as it was, a little cleaning and some tlc went a long way. First I pulled out the glass. There are 4 plastic covers with phillips head screws that come off. Then 4 10mm nuts get undone which hold the glass in place. The glass just lifts out but be careful not to scratch the paint with the sunroof studs. Then I found that the stamped metal had rusted and exfoliated so bad that it was pushing the weather stripping out to far. I scraped it and brushed it with a wire brush and scraped some more and then used a rust converter. After sitting for 30 minutes I painted it black. Then the weather stripping gets pushed back into place so that the sunroof will close properly. I also found on the air dam that some weather stripping had come of. I re-attached it with some weather stripping adhesive and re-installed the glass. It's not the prettiest thing to look at from inside but now that it is black and not rust and rust flakes aren't falling in on passengers, it isn't even noticable. Don't forget to clean out the tracks and the drains as they will be plugged with grease and rust. Once done, my works like new and I have saved a thousand bucks. I also know now that to replace the glass only is about 300 bucks and easy to do if I ever feel the need. Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


"WE ARE ALL A PRODUCT OF OUR OWN DECISIONS"

92 Mitsubishi Pajero XR 2.5 TD (SOLD and feeling lost without it)
OME Suspension
American Racing steel Wheels with
Dick Cepek FCII Tires
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: spence121] #880899 04/21/08 06:41 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24
asmTdi Offline OP
Need a Spot
Quote
In regards to your stuck sunroof question, the answer is probably that the stamped metal that holds the glass in place is likely rusted. My sunroof was also stuck and once I pushed it back while holding the button it broke free and opened. I found that it was as I mentioned above. I checked it out on Mitsubishiparts.com and a whole assembly from the the states was almost one thousand dollars. This included everything though, including the motor. I chose to take my sunroof apart and as ugly as it was, a little cleaning and some tlc went a long way. First I pulled out the glass. There are 4 plastic covers with phillips head screws that come off. Then 4 10mm nuts get undone which hold the glass in place. The glass just lifts out but be careful not to scratch the paint with the sunroof studs. Then I found that the stamped metal had rusted and exfoliated so bad that it was pushing the weather stripping out to far. I scraped it and brushed it with a wire brush and scraped some more and then used a rust converter. After sitting for 30 minutes I painted it black. Then the weather stripping gets pushed back into place so that the sunroof will close properly. I also found on the air dam that some weather stripping had come of. I re-attached it with some weather stripping adhesive and re-installed the glass. It's not the prettiest thing to look at from inside but now that it is black and not rust and rust flakes aren't falling in on passengers, it isn't even noticable. Don't forget to clean out the tracks and the drains as they will be plugged with grease and rust. Once done, my works like new and I have saved a thousand bucks. I also know now that to replace the glass only is about 300 bucks and easy to do if I ever feel the need. Good luck <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thanks so much for this. I better print this out and use it as a guide for sunroof repairing!! Its not easy work though..but will do to save the bucks..


1993 Pajero Xp LWB 2.5TDiC
Re: just bought Pajero 2.5 int cooler turbo [Re: asmTdi] #880900 04/23/08 05:14 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 372
spence121 Offline
Mudrunner
One improtant thing I forgot to mention was to ensure that when you pull out the guides that slide in the aluminum tracks and clean them, make sure the front ones go back in the front and make sure that the small wheels in the tracks rest above the arms for the front air dam. You will see what I mean when you pull them apart. Failure to do this will prevent the sunroof from closing and possibly damage the fragile aluminum arms that lift the front air dam as the arms will force down on the wheels instead of the wheels pushing the arms down. Also, if you need to remove the front air dam it comes off with 4 phillips head screws and you will have to pry off two of the 4 "C" clips that hold the studs in the pivots on the arms. I recommend the two upper ones and gently tap them off with a small flat screwdriver. If the air dam doesn't need to come off, leave it.


"WE ARE ALL A PRODUCT OF OUR OWN DECISIONS"

92 Mitsubishi Pajero XR 2.5 TD (SOLD and feeling lost without it)
OME Suspension
American Racing steel Wheels with
Dick Cepek FCII Tires
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