Hey Guys need some help. Last couple of days when i turn key to start nothing... then back to off and start again and it starts right up. New battery installed 2 weeks ago and all connections tight. Truck just turned 100,000 yesterday. Could it be starter or solenoid. any ideas

Brushes! check out the tech section here.

Yup...you need to replace yer brushes. It's pretty easy once you git the starter out and a whole lot cheaper than buying a rebuilt/new one. Unless yer made of money... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

The soleniod contacts are notorious for going bad, giving a click and no starter motor response. Turn the key off, turn it back on, and it may click again, or it may finally decide to catch.

Ignition switches are another source of problems. If there is no clicking of the starter solenoid, electricity isn't even getting down to the solenoid, and the ignition switch is the likely culprit.

Thanks for the help guys, Problem was the contacts.... they were pretty worn. replaced both sides and start problem fixed.. ready for another 100,000 miles

97 T100 3.4 V6 4x4 5spd - 130K

Just my few cents to the STARTER problem manifested by "DENSO CLICK"
(Love this description! very correct - you turn the ignition key - then goes that click and NOTHING.)

Of course, those whom looked inside of a starter before know - it is a plunger hitting the contacts; and if the contacts are damaged or warned no "contact" is made and NOTHING - no Starter action.

For most of us who did experience "Denso click" issue, replacing contacts would be one time deal. (Unless you start your car 100 times a day).

Those who experience this issue and start thinking hard on either replacing contacts or buying another Starter û donÆt: REPLACE THE CONTACTS (either yourself or in a local shop) and save your money.

Here is what I want to say:

1. Best place to start is to know your starter part #
Mine (original DENSO) is 28100-07010
Once this number is available it is relatively easy to find CORRECT part numbers for your replacement parts.
- 28226-74070 (contact repair kit)
- 28226-16130 (contact repair kit)
- 28235-55050 (plunger - sometimes cleanup/sanding is OK)
These parts above are called a contact repair kit because, you getting contacts with mounting bolts, and spacer, insulating washers, etc.

Sometimes, there is this question to consider: Do I have non-cold spec Starter or cold spec?
Well, having your starter part # helps.
Quick search on google.com returned few links - one of them very useful
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki...ild&diff=prev&oldid=2768

If your starter part # is not known, then I recommend pull it out BEFORE you start looking for parts. But that is up to you. You can still start your track if manual trans, right?

Pulling a starter out is not easy, but not too difficult (not too technical) either.
It is more about your manual skills then technical skills.
1-Lift your front right wheel and remove (secure your track on the stand first!).
2-Disconeect your PLUS terminal battery.
3-Partially remove or lift that rubber guard between wheel well and engine.
When removing those plastics mounts-clips donÆt force them; put your hand behind and squeeze the other end. You should figure it out quickly when you look at it.
OR buy new once for reinstall.
4-Disconnect the wires. I was able to remove the "front" facing terminal wire only at this point.
The other one is somewhat hiding. Unless you are good with your hands it is difficult.
Wait until the starter is unbolted.
5-Remove the 2 (two) mounting bolts: 14 mm heads. You will find them on the left side of the starter when looking at the starter from wheel well; next to the firewall. IÆm writing this after reading that someone removed 2 skinny bolts on the starter itself (they keep the starter together).

I've red about different ways of removing the starter mounting bolts.
I did it from the bottom - from under the car.
I used 14 mm socket with a short about 8" ratchet.
The trick was in the right length of extension between the socket and the ratchet.
You will see it when under your car.
6-After unbolting is finished get out from under the car and pull out the starter grabbing it from a wheel well. Disconnect the remaining wire after grabbing the starter with your left hand.
Small flat head screwdriver is handy in releasing the connector first.

SAFETY GLASSES ARE REALLY HELPFUL here.


WHEN putting the starter back connect the wires before bolting the starter in.


NOW
Having the starter out verify/get your parts. Hopefully, there is still label on your starter.
And here goes a fun part:
In most HELPFUL info on this forum or other forums we can read: buy a repair kit for contacts.
That is fine but instead of spending $20.00 - $40.00 for repair kits contacts you can
buy CONTACTS ONLY for way less; $2-4 at most each. The trick is to buy the right shape.
Search in local electric parts suppliers or on line.
(Drive around with the old contacts in hand???)
Then replace the contacts reusing old other parts-bolts-washers, etc.
PLUNGER - if in a good shape - refurbish it by cleaning up-sanding of its contacts area.
(Your will see when you have it in your hand).
Of course, new plunger is always preferred (think about those hours spent when removing and reinstalling your starter). But that is additional $20.00 - $30.00.

AND here goes the best part in my case.
After looking in yellow pages a called around local Auto Electric repair shops.
I got lucky with one!
I got my starter contacts and plunger REPLACED for $20.00 (20 minutes waiting) AND TESTED.
(yes - 20 bucks for parts and labor)
I don't think I could do better than that.
Going this way (if available) is way better then buying repair kits and replacing contacts yourself.

Repair kit pricing sample:
First local Toyota dealer: about $40 for both contact kits, plus about $30 for plunger.
Second (few miles away) Toyota dealer: about $30 for both contact kits, plus about $25.00 for plunger.
(Quite a few bucks + your work)
On line (Conicelli): $21 for contacts, (no plunger) + $8.25 for ground shipping to my place.

So, having a local repair shop available is really worth looking at.
Besides, you may need it again for something else.

I hope this will help anybody facing THE DENSO CLICK issue for the first time.
Those in Western Mass area interested in this repair shop look for Chase Automotive Electric on line.


Thanks

I got mine here: Starter Contacts

You can order all 4 types and send back the ones you don't need. 1 "A" and 1 "B" did it for me. The plunger cleaned up fine with some steel wool after 106K miles of use.