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pulling a 2.6 motor
#881221
04/16/08 06:08 AM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 384
OP
Mudrunner
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OK guys you never let me down. Th headgasket replacement is turning in to a full motor RR. Im just asking for any tricks of the trade.......pull the head first? How to get to the bolts in the back of the motor? Why is the AT harder to RR than a manual? Things like that. I apreciate everything you guys have done for me! Thanks for puttin' up with a newbie mechanic!
cjm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: cjsmontero]
#881222
04/16/08 01:46 PM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,622
Roll Me Over
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You can pull it with or without the head on the engine. Without makes it a little more manuverable. I can't comment on the bellhousing bolts because I've never pulled a 2.6 from a Monty.
If you haven't already, pull the radiatior and fan, that will give you much more room.
As far as manual vs. auto, I think they both have their difficulties, I'm not sure that I'd say one is harder than the other. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
'06 Dakota QC 4.7 6sp 4x4 '88 Mighty Max '77 KZ1000 fun old bike
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: NathanC]
#881223
04/16/08 03:06 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,458
Trail Leader
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When you brake the seal between the torque convertor and the transmission input shaft, be prepared for a puddle of t-fluid. I think the FSM recommends pulling the trans first, then the engine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />
1987 Raider - Roxy 1988 Mighty Max 2.6L Turbo - Pearl 1997 Mountaineer V8 - Freddy 2000 Excursion V10 - Freya
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: NathanC]
#881224
04/16/08 03:06 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Wheeler
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definitely take the head off first, it makes life way easier for removal and reinstallation.
as far as the top bellhousing bolts? make a tool. take a 12mm (or 14?) wrench, stick it in your vise and put 2 bends in it so that it clears the firewall and still goes over the bolt head (this is much easier with the head off), then take a second wrench and use it like a breaker bar. once you crack them loose (and they will be tight, trust me), you should be able to loosen them off with your fingers.
have you taken the starter out yet? that is also a pain in the ass. use multiple extensions and a wobble and lots of swearing.
still have the mikuni on that thing? if you're going weber while the motors out, just take all that vacuum mess out. this will make life easier for reinstallation.
'09 Acura TSX Tech Package '05 Blazer (Company hauler) Retired '88 Bada$$ edition Raider (now owned by shadowgear)
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: jerzboy]
#881225
04/16/08 03:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 227
Wheeler
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oh, and stupid question, but have you taken your hood off yet? if not, do it, makes for way more room and a nice seat on top of the fenders.
'09 Acura TSX Tech Package '05 Blazer (Company hauler) Retired '88 Bada$$ edition Raider (now owned by shadowgear)
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: jerzboy]
#881226
04/16/08 07:38 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 384
OP
Mudrunner
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Thanks for the input everyone. Pull the starter first? Should I take off the motor mounts first and the crossmember to lower the engine a bit to get to the bolts? Thanks again for the help.
cjm
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: cjsmontero]
#881227
04/16/08 07:56 PM
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,622
Roll Me Over
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You have to pull the starter. There's a thin steel plate between the engine and trans. It's also between the starter and trans. If you fail to pull the starter, the engine isn't going anywhere. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />
Probably not worth the hassle to lower the engine first.
'06 Dakota QC 4.7 6sp 4x4 '88 Mighty Max '77 KZ1000 fun old bike
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: jerzboy]
#881228
04/17/08 03:40 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,393
Body Damage is Cool
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Pulling the starter isn't that bad.
But... when you're ready to re-install- Plan ahead and leave yourself an hour to attempt it, then a two hour break to go cuss and have a beer, and maybe go out and blow up some stuff or shoot somethin'.... come back, spend an hour or so... repeat until you get that @#$$^@$^^&&#@!!! back in! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
-Dave D Reservoir of Useless Knowledge
"But... If I kill all the golfers, they'll lock me up, and throw away the key..." -Bill Murray
'84&change Monty MPI Turbo, choptop, f&r lsd, swapped in AT- All the goodies!
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: ForcedAir_Montero]
#881229
04/18/08 01:14 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,458
Trail Leader
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I changed the starter in my Raider in 30 minutes last Wednesday afternoon, and I didn't even get underneath the car!!
I use a flex-head 14mm ratchet box/open combo wrench. I scratched the inside of my right arm on a hose clamp and made some salt & pepper type indentations on my left hand. The only reason for the half hour was to also bench test my starter selection to find a good unit. When tightening the bolts, I use a long-handled 9/16" box wrench over the open end of the 14mm.
No sweat! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />
1987 Raider - Roxy 1988 Mighty Max 2.6L Turbo - Pearl 1997 Mountaineer V8 - Freddy 2000 Excursion V10 - Freya
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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor
[Re: cjsmontero]
#881230
04/20/08 09:22 AM
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
Need a Spot
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[color:"blue"] [/color] <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> a newbe here just wanting to know if there is a differnce in 2.6 motors from standard to automatic trans some one told me i could not bolt a automatic to a standard i have a standard 1987 mitsubishi montero and blaning on rebuilding a2.6 out of a 1987 dodge raider same engine codes please let me know before i tie up a engine overhaul for nothing thanks david <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
david
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