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Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: dadrab] #881241 10/28/08 05:39 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,356
MontyMcV Offline
Trail Leader
I actually have my IC still all running to the RH/PS side. The changes I had made to the IC were to redirect the outlets better than they were when pointing to the same side. It cost me $50 for the TIG to have that done.

If I had it to do over, I would have upsized the IC fittings to 1-7/8" even 2", as I will now need to spend the same $50 again.

I do not know if I would route to the DS side or not. If one is to make custom IC piping to begin with, it can all be readily handled on the PS and around the aircan. I think I would still go this way, and leave the space on the DS open for other things. (For one, the HL washer tank takes up a chunk of that space to begin with.) If one is after deeps woods type of wheeling, that could be a good place for other things like OBA and OBW.


Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand!
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k
Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: MontyMcV] #881242 10/28/08 05:50 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,413
dadrab Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
(For one, the HL washer tank takes up a chunk of that space to begin with.)


You're exactly right and I forgot about that because my 2.6 doesn't have one.

I still believe, though, if I had an IC with one stub on each side, I'd go from turbo to IC on the RH side and from IC to intake on the LH side. That should shorten the air path a little.

Quote
If I had it to do over, I would have upsized the IC fittings to 1-7/8" even 2"...


Yep. If you're going to the trouble and expense to have someone tig up the stubs, might as well upsize some. Remember, an air path is only as good as it's smallest opening.


87 Montero, bought new, by me -
88/89 intercooled Starion Turbo engine-
with awesome audio.


Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: dadrab] #881243 10/28/08 05:59 PM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 530
W
WagonMaster Offline
Rock Warrior
The easiest way to pull a 2.6 is to get a 3.0 V6 (ya know, a motor that works) rig, hook a chain to your 2.6, and drag it down the street. THAT'S the way to pull a 2.6... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />


HUMMER .25: No need to compensate.

1989 Dodge Raider: 3.0/5
1992 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible: 3.0/A
1994 GMC Safari: 4.3/A
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: WagonMaster] #881244 10/28/08 06:59 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,356
MontyMcV Offline
Trail Leader
You saying you want to tug-o-war against a 2.6L turboed IC TB-EFI rig?


Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand!
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k
Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: dadrab] #881245 10/28/08 07:01 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,356
MontyMcV Offline
Trail Leader
Quote
I still believe, though, if I had an IC with one stub on each side, I'd go from turbo to IC on the RH side and from IC to intake on the LH side. That should shorten the air path a little.


If you come in from the DS, you'll have to cross to the PS due to the way the TB faces. I am not sure that the path is all the much shorter in the end.


Big Truck: 00, 3.5, Endeavor, 5-Spd drive line in hand!
Little Truck: 87, 2.6T I/C, MT, LSDs, Tonneau Top
Her Truck: 03, 3.8, 20th Anniv, 65k
Daughter's: 06 Eclipse, Keeping it Mitsu!
FSMs: MitsubishiLinks.com
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: MontyMcV] #881246 10/28/08 08:08 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
fasteddy Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
For future reference, I've found it easiest to pull the tcase off the tranny, then pull the engine and tranny together, using a tilt gizmo on the hoist hook. I've pulled the engine only, but I dropped the tranny rear to get socket/extention room, and used another set of hands to set socket on upper BH bolts, except the one time I was alone and had to fish it into place by feel, tedious but not too bad. I use lower BH type thread bolts with the heads cut off for guide pins to align engine/tranny.

It's possible to align the clutch plate by eye, if your eye is finely calibrated.

I like to pull the heads off first, too, if only to cut down on the weight.

Ditto hood off and radiator removed, and add plywood shield for a/c condenser protection.

Beware torque converter install depth when bolting together again. Measure depth from engine plate to back bolt face of flwxplate, and make sure converter is seated that deep in tranny. Takes some fiddling to make it seat all three steps (step 1 is splines into converter, 2nd step is splines into something else, third step is slots on converter neck over tranny oil pump ears). if you get step three wrong, you break the oil pump gears when you cinch it up tight. Then the tranny is junk, if you run it that way, as the gear pieces get into the valve body.


Not responsible for advice not taken...
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: fasteddy] #881247 10/28/08 08:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,413
dadrab Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
If you come in from the DS, you'll have to cross to the PS due to the way the TB faces. I am not sure that the path is all the much shorter in the end.


I've seen in photos (some of the Starion guys) where they'll use a "U" shaped piece at the TB to obtain the correct approach angle. In that case, they usually scrap the OVC pipe in lieu of the "U" pipe so it saves space.

Quote
and add plywood shield for a/c condenser protection


Wish I'd thought of that. I chose the path named "be very careful and move very slowly" instead. Took a while, but it worked. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />


87 Montero, bought new, by me -
88/89 intercooled Starion Turbo engine-
with awesome audio.


Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: dadrab] #881248 10/28/08 10:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 233
87Raider_TSI Offline
Wheeler
I appreciate the tips. I think I've got a plan for the IC now.

I ended up pulling the engine w/ the head still on. The bellhousing bolts were tough, but not as bad as I thought. Everything was reachable from underneath with a wobble and an extention or two.

I have to thank fasteddy for the reminder about those guide studs. I have some already and almost forgot about them. That'll make the trans go in a lot easier.

Back to work.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />


'87 Raider SWB 2.6T/5 spd - Boxy and boosted.
'88 Conquest TSI - MPI and lots of other mods
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: MontyMcV] #881249 10/28/08 10:53 PM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 530
W
WagonMaster Offline
Rock Warrior
Quote
You saying you want to tug-o-war against a 2.6L turboed IC TB-EFI rig?


You betcha!!

With Frank's SUPERCHARGED 3.0! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

The amount of rubber from both rigs pooling on the floor would be obscured by the volume of smoke in the air.

Man, what a sight that would be... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />


HUMMER .25: No need to compensate.

1989 Dodge Raider: 3.0/5
1992 Chrysler LeBaron Convertible: 3.0/A
1994 GMC Safari: 4.3/A
Re: pulling a 2.6 motor [Re: WagonMaster] #881250 10/29/08 01:53 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 189
Cochese Offline
Wheeler
Quote
The easiest way to pull a 2.6 is to get a 3.0 V6 (ya know, a motor that works) rig, hook a chain to your 2.6, and drag it down the street. THAT'S the way to pull a 2.6... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />


I think I'd rather drag a 3.0 behind this 2.6

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzJ67xqHxHE


1987 Dodge Raider TSi

...it begins.
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