I installed the UCA's with the thicker side against the frame, so that's good to go.

Originally, there were 2 2mm shims on the driver's side and 3 2mm shims on the passenger side. I left 2 on the driver's and 2 on right. I cranked the torsion bars until there was 4 inches from the lower bump stop and the bottom of the lower rubber bumper on each side. Driver's side is about 3/8" higher unloaded. That left about 5/8" between each upper bump stop and the trimmed upper rubber bumper. With the old UCA's I only had about 1/4" between the upper bump stop and the trimmed upper rubber bumper. So I have more downward articulation than before, which results in a smoother ride. It looks like this.

[Linked Image]

With this setup, I have 0.9 positive camber (54 minutes) on the driver's side and 0.2 (12 minutes) on the passenger side.

To get 0* camber I've got a couple of choices. One, I could crank the t-bars more, which decreases camber. But that would limit downward travel and result in a rougher ride, hitting the bumpers more. No likee.

So I'm going to add 2 more 2mm shims on the driver's side (52 minutes correction) and 1 more 1mm shim on the passenger's side (13 minutes correction). That should bring me real close to 0* on both sides.

The really sharp among you will have noticed something ugly about that picture that will eventually involve many hours of fun.


1990 Monty LS 3.0 A/T LWB. KYB front shocks, OME rears and coils. 33x10.5 BFG Muds. 5.29, 2.85, RD110, RD46. 2 bouncys. Aisins. Monte Disco swaybar disconnects. GenII t-arms, idler arm, UCA's, V45W front brakes. 2in BL.