As can the Gen1 pivot.... that's how you adjust caster angle.

Frank

I've mentioned that several times in the past. The mount-shaft of the Gen I UCA is even on both sides, while the mount-shaft of the Gen II is very noticeably thicker on one side.

When I first mounted mine, I mounted them with the thinner side against the frame. Even after cranking the t-bars, I had a very obvious positive camber (i.e., top of the tires leaning out from the truck). I decided to flip the mount-shafts so that the thicker sides were against the frame. This brought the camber much closer to zero, and I was able to correct it with one shim each side.

It was easy to flip the shafts. I just:

- jacked up the front of the truck, putting it on jack-stands (weight supported at the forward crossmember)

- supported the LCA somewhat with a jack - just enough to take the strain off the UCA mount-shafts

- loosened the mount-bolts for the UCA enough to verify that the shaft could be moved at least with a wrench but wasn't going to pop away from the frame when the nuts and bolts were removed completely (adjusted jack supporting LCA accordingly)

- IIRC, I think I may have even loosened (but not removed) the ball-joint nut connecting the UCA ball-joint to the knuckle

- removed the UCA mount-shaft bolts and used a wrench (and/or perhaps a screwdriver in the bolt-holes) to get the shafts rotated 180?

- reassembled

I installed the UCA's with the thicker side against the frame, so that's good to go.

Originally, there were 2 2mm shims on the driver's side and 3 2mm shims on the passenger side. I left 2 on the driver's and 2 on right. I cranked the torsion bars until there was 4 inches from the lower bump stop and the bottom of the lower rubber bumper on each side. Driver's side is about 3/8" higher unloaded. That left about 5/8" between each upper bump stop and the trimmed upper rubber bumper. With the old UCA's I only had about 1/4" between the upper bump stop and the trimmed upper rubber bumper. So I have more downward articulation than before, which results in a smoother ride. It looks like this.



With this setup, I have 0.9 positive camber (54 minutes) on the driver's side and 0.2 (12 minutes) on the passenger side.

To get 0* camber I've got a couple of choices. One, I could crank the t-bars more, which decreases camber. But that would limit downward travel and result in a rougher ride, hitting the bumpers more. No likee.

So I'm going to add 2 more 2mm shims on the driver's side (52 minutes correction) and 1 more 1mm shim on the passenger's side (13 minutes correction). That should bring me real close to 0* on both sides.

The really sharp among you will have noticed something ugly about that picture that will eventually involve many hours of fun.

Is that a welded on sway bar?

No way. Do people do that? Oh, I see what you're seeing; that's just a petrified glob of grease in front of the tie rod.

Looks like a split in the inboard CV boot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Bingo. While doing all this front end work, I noticed both sides are the same way. Funny, there is no band with boot remnants on either side suggesting that they were never installed right. I'm not even sure the boots are correct because the ends are perfectly round and smooth--they don't look torn. And the ends don't have the grooving that the band would attach to. Definitely going to have to take care of it soon.