ryany,

You could modify your sliders into boat sides...???

Roger likes the flexy style, which use the body lower seam as the final block to skid movement. My concern (up in the 400 days of rain per year PNW) is all the mud/crap that would be trapped there, and act as a rust source. In Calif, this may not be an issue. So mine are pretty inflexible, and positioned no closer than 1/2" to the body, to prevent mud trapping and permit easy cleaning.

I've seen rigs with all manner of rocker skid construction and flex (even one that the owner would jump on to bend back away from the body), and as long as you're happy with it, I guess it's the right one for you...

Edward, good to see you back! ...dual NP231's... Now THAT'S low gear, about 120:1 final ?

I welded mine on. I used a motorcycle jack to get them into the perfect position and went to town.

My bars are made from 3/16" thick 2"x2" square tubing. They aren't pretty at all, but they are very strong. I used leftover tubing for gussets on the top of the tube to the frame by making 2x2x3 triangles. Not only is it rock solid jumping down on them, it's also rock solid dumping it on rocks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I attached them so they were just touching the bottom of the pinch weld.

Thanks, Don!

I agree with don, though I personally wouldn't recommend mounting the bars against the body on a body-on-frame for any reason. A good solid hit and you can kiss a rocker pannel goodbye. Pinch welds aren't that strong - and I have the pics to prove that. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Actually it'll be about 230:1. Yep. That's me. 1% insperation. 99% stupidity. The only people that'll talk to me any more are Toyota guys. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Edward

Don,

Why is a C channel stronger than a box frame? I'm having difficulty understanding that.

It would seem to me that the C channel would be more likely to collapse.

Ray

Ray,
Just drill a hole through the side wall of the C-channel, and use a siomple nut and bolt. The side wall of the C-channel is just a sheet of metal and can't collapse...

Edward,
Cool!
My truck's been GM-ified since you last saw it in CO, all them years back...
My NP231 has a 2.72:1 ratio, combined with the 4L60E's 3.06:1, and the diff's 4.625:1 gives me a 38.495:1, then a second NP231 @ 2.72:1 would get it to 104.7:1
I guess at 200:1, you're using Terra-Low's 4:1 gears in the NP231's...

Ahhh... you mean it can't collapse from the pressure of tightening the bolts that attach the mounts. I thought you meant it was stronger for taking the stress of a hit on the rock skids. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

If the bolts are sleeved, then you should avoid that problem w/ a full boxed frame right? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Carlos was able to drill another set of holes just lower so he could mount the rails higher to match his body lift. Yes you may want to fill the old holes but it's not really necessary.

Myself, I decided against drilling out the frame rails for a removable mount. I elected to weld the sliders in place. Of course I did the body lift first since it was cheaper to do. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Just weld them on. Its easy to cut them off if you ever have to for some reason. If you want good rock slider fast and at a good price go to trail gear. That is where I got mine.

SWEET! Wow! Yea, it HAS changed a bunch! Yea, I started out doing just the Terra Low231 and NathanÆs conversion convinced me to do something with the spare parts I ended up with. Probably bust something trying to back it out of the garage. But, yea, most of the reduction is the 4:1 Terra Low and the 5.38:1 axle gears.

Edward