Ok I just drove it around again..

Again to reiterate:
-I take off with little gas and feel almost nothing.
-I take off with moderate gas and I get what I can only describe as a wobble/jump in the driveline on take off from a dead stop.
-If I give it any moderate gas at any time the truck almost wants to jump it feels like. It throws me back in the seat and the front of the truck really wants to lift up it feels like.

I drive at speed and coast no issue, I give it gas I get a jump in the driveline again and the vibe is there.

I try to do a burnout, the rearend hops around like nuts, its been doing that since I noticed this vibe.

The only thing that has changed in my truck since the vibe came was I installed new bilstein HD shocks. Before that the shocks were completely worn out and i didnt notice any vibe afaik.

So I just dunno anymore. I am tearing out my hair over this basically. The mechanic I took it to this past time said the one u joint was ok but tighter than it should be, he said he tweaked it and my bad wobble became a jump in the drive train.

The only other issue I can not test is the tires required alot of weights to balance and they are out of round, but that would cause all of this? I need someone elses tires and rims to test it, I would hate to spend 500 on new tires only to find out its not it as these tires only have 15k on them.

I suppose I could remove the rear tires and if the axle shaft is bent I can physically see the run out and wobble of the rear drums?

You may be on to something.
If that was the last step that affected the problem...
The ears in the slip yoke and/or pinion flange can go out of round when a ujoint wears out or gets overdriven on installation. Or one or more of the machined stops for the caps, which are barely there to begin with, get mauled. Or those ears get tweaked. The latter two are especially easy to do (the flange is more likely to bend than the yoke, though) if you press the joint out rather than using the bfh technique and back the cap out. You basically end up with a round peg in an oval hole. It's not much, might not even be enough to see, but it won't drive altogether right. Been there, done that, got the tshirt.

I don't remember if you've tried this yet, but how about removing the rear driveshaft and driving around in 4wd (front wheel drive) and see how it acts?

Manual or auto tranny? If its an auto, it could also be something strange going on in the tranny.

Thing is though eleet, I had the driveshaft totally checked over and redone. The guy said my u joints were fine, and balanced the driveshaft and replaced a stub shaft or something along those lines. When I took it to the mechanic he wasnt to specific other than saying oneof the u joints he tweaked. Perhaps he tweaked the actual flange?

OK I just finished removing the rear driveshaft and test driving. As far as i can tell the vibe still exists, the wobble was hard to tell if it was there tho.

When I had the DS out I checked all the u joints, all seemed to be fine, none of the yokes seemed to be bent or such. The u joints moved freely, the double cardan joint area kinda moved oddly, but I chalk it up to its design and if that was it my vibe wouldnt be there with the whole thing removed.

So I checked the rear a bit from the outside. Looks like the guy at the driveshaft shop replaced the stud on there b/c there is a new brass looking nut on there.

Saturday a friend is coming with his 4runner and were gonna swap tires and see if thats it.

Otherwise its gotta be the trans, bellhousing, such. What else could be there near the trans/engine? I did notice this odd looking mount thing behind the transmount that seemed to mount to nothing had broken rubber, but I cant see wtf its for?

Probably the vibration damper thingy. I doubt you'd notice much difference if was damaged/missing though.

Lower, left in this pic:

Thats the thing Erik. No worries then.

After alot of work again, I think I found it.

The wobble on take off, or whatever you wanna call it is the rear DRIVER brake catching and not releasing properly. I dont see why, but several times I felt for the wobble and its def coming from the drivers side rear and once it releases it goes away. This makes sense b/c the mechanic had also adjusted my rear brakes, he said he bled them (I put new in and was getting this AWFUL screech if I stopped hard, it went away when he bled..I must have a leak or something???). I have new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders..springs are nice and springy too.

I also lifted the rear end and put it into drive, the wheels and or tires seem to be out, but also that could be the shafts. Its not like I can physically see alot of movement, its quite minute but enough to notice.

Also when I had it in drive and the wheels spinning i could easily hear the rear brakes still grabbing a bit, not bad but enough I could hear them.

Im going back to the mechanic next week or sooner I hope. I am just happy I found out the vibration after I removed the DS was something I did (it got worse). Either the bolts on the back by the rear werent tightened enough or they backed themselves out. I noticed they were blue..loctite?

Its so hard to pinpoint this problem. you can think its one thing and it aint and another thing and so forth.

Brake hmm??

Go on a gravel road. Open the windows. Brake softly. See if you hear that brake lock up earlier.

If you do then maybe you might want to look at the wheel bearing. Mine was leaking oil into the brake too.

This is what lead to me finding the bent axle and bad bearing.

Well tommorow my friends coming with his 4runenr, were gonna swap tires and see if that makes any different.

What I cant help but wonder is if my springs are kinda worn out and maybe putting tension on the rear-perhaps thats why my issue? Its the drive wheel thats locking, I dont get why. I have all new parts besides the springs, which believe me were VERY hard to get on and off b/c they aint worn out.

Brake springs? The brake springs are very nice, they will probably work ok even if they are bent.

Remember that the brake shoes are mounted to the backing plate (axle housing) and the drum is mounted to the axle flange. So if the end of the axle moves, drum is off center and it will rub against a shoe.

It's pretty easy to pull the axle out of the tube with the complete brake. You will have to bleed the brakes again, you might want to check them out while your buddy is over.

My problem side was leaking oil into the brake drum too. Maybe this is not the problem if you don't have oily brakes, but if you have never looked at them or the bearing after 200k miles it surely wont hurt.

Tip - if you jack up one side at a time, not much oil will come out