Switched tires/rims with a friend, the vibe/wobble is still there so the tires arent it. Take off there is a wobble, at speed you get that vibe.

When he drove my truck he agreed with me that vibe/wobble only happens when on the gas, coast and no vibe really. He also commented that he also thinks my leaf springs are worn out. As a test we put my atv back there, it only weighs 250lbs if that, the truck SAGGED.

We also bled the rear brakes 3x each (RR, RL and LSPV) and I got any air out that was in there, I dont think there is anymore air in there. It did help the odd screeching noise, it didnt lock up as bad as before-until you really slammed the brakes home. The drivers side rear brake just isnt engaging right is the issue, its the one screeching. Perhaps its not adjusted right..

So in order to rule out the wobble/vibe I am just gonna bite the bullet and have the springs done. As it is now my truck sits level, compare it to my truck to this truck - it has some rake to it, mine doesnt and sits almost sagging if not level (mines the red one)





After i get the springs done Im going to the mech and have him check the rear brakes and drums, the bearings and axle shafts.

Crawled under and checked the rear brakes:
The drivers side is adjusted just a wee bit more than the pass side. Pass side looks like I could bit an index card between the drum and shoe, drivers side I doubt I could fit paper in there. Perhaps its adjusted to much?

If it is too tight, then why? There has to be some slack in it for the adjuster to make another "click."

I adjusted it, took off the drum and all and its now the same as the other side. It made no difference in the vibration or the screeching brake noise if you stop hard-infact now that I de-adjusted it, it seems to lock up.

So:
A: Even though I have newer wheel cylinders, I bought them from napa and something tells me the drivers side isnt working right. Because if I hit the brakes really hard the drivers side definately locks and doesnt release right away. Cant be an out of round drum, the drums/shoes have 250 miles on them or less. I figure there is nothing else to cause an issue, so wheel cylinders sometime this week.

B: The vibration is hard to pinpoint still. On take off you have the wobble, at speed you have the vibe. I seriously think the axle shaft is bent and or the bearing is bad. The rest of the drivetrain is fine, pulling the rear axle and driving in 4wd and the vibe was still there, if it was driveline it woulda gone away.

The leaf springs could maybe causing the axle wrap too, but I rather go the cheaper route first and have the other stuff checked out.

I did notice if I do a light burn out that I hop around, AFAIK there is LSD in this truck. Odd though that the drivewheel was hopping like crazy but the pass wheel was the one smoking..

ELEET: WHEN YOU DID YOUR AXLE SHAFTS, BEFORE YOU CHANGED THEM DID YOU NOTICE ANY VIBRATIONS OR ANYTHING?

Yes I had a constant vibration all the time from play in the bearing. Finally got so bad bed shook up and down! It all felt fine but turns out I didn't know what to feel for and was real slack about expecting everything to feel tight. Could not deny the dial gauge measurements though, end of axle can be moved in and out 2mm/limit is something like .7; measured 3mm of what looked like wheel runout, and I read that 1mm is servicable limit for slackers.

LOL, even the dealer said the wheels were bent. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

The brake on that side was sticking, too. I might have caused the bent axle by "unsticking" the brake after the wheel bearing started to go. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I got 2 bearings, one junkyard axle. Other side was fine. Changed bearing anyway... dont want to deal with leaks or axle for another 10 years. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If you want to slide your axles out you can reuse the o ring there by cleaning it and its chase with gear oil + paper towel.

I am not out of the water yet wrt my axle, I still havent swapped the diff. Still growling and backlash seems excessive. I also want to double check all the angles too.

Thanks eleet, I really think this is my problem as well. As soon as I can get my truck to my mechanic its gonna get new rear wheel bearings and check the shafts, cause what you just said confirms it.

There is nothing else it can be, mostly b/c when removing the drive shaft it still did it (although not as bad b/c it wasnt connected to anything)

I sure hope it helps, but I did have oil in my brake, and my brake was seriously sticking too. I confirmed I had a bearing problem after taking the measurements and would recommend you do the same. I had ordered all that stuff anyway because of the seal, the trucks age and the 'take it apart once' philosophy, the measurements just gave me the motivation to tear into it. If you are going to spend money dont do it on my word alone, i'm not a mechanic just a hack

I got into the axle by trying to adjust the sticky out of the brake like you. But I didnt replace any part of the brakes until I could do the bearing/seal because the oil was leaking. Was trying to put that off until later.

I do think 200k miles is a lot for these bearings, on top of that they do look wimpy to me (but are also supported by the diff side bearings too) and Toyota changed the axle/bearing to a beefier one.

Did not even think about the bent axle until I saw it, if it was not bent so badly as to be visible to the eye I might not have even given it a thought.

How about the gravel road test - did you try that? I worked on the bad side of the axle first and the first thing I noticed on the test drive was that brake did not lock up first anymore at the end of my driveway trail.

Probably the best part about this - if you got your shoes / drums from the dealer, and they are screwed up, you ought to be able to get new ones for free because of parts warranty.

No gravel roads around here that I know, there is a dirt road I need to give it a shot with tho.

The parts were ordered at cost by my shop and I installed all the brake stuff (drums, shoes) so I dont have any warranty really b/c I threw out the boxes. There is no fluid at all in there, not a single drop..

Just got back from my mechanic, yep the pass side axle shaft is def bent as is the rim and or tire on that side too.

Now I need to source me some axle shafts, he said to try online as of course the stealer is $$$.. Anyone know a place to buy them online? I got 1st toyota parts and the price was $270. I figure I might as well order and replace both of them, wouldnt want to go through all the trouble of doing one only to find out the one side is bad to and i need to order another or such.

WOW man. Nice.

I got mine at a junkyard. I just brought a aluminum yardstick along. I looked at one and it was bent too. On the 2nd stop I had a perfect axle.

I dont think you need to replace the other side if its not bent. I only got one.

Left/right side only differ in the brake.

They changed the axle in late 98 - you will need a different bearing for it but it should fit if you use the bearing box from the axle. You can also find that axle on some tundras but I dont know if the bearing box will fit and you'll need to put the t100 brake plate on when you change the bearing.