Hey dude I just checked it seems all of the Tundra up to 08/02 match those model codes I listed. The only difference is ABS (you have to get same as your truck.) This might open up a whole bunch of junkyards for you. **LOTS** of these in junkyards around here while T100 are pretty rare.

You are expecting to buy the bearing case anyway.

Oh indeed Eleet, thank you I really appreciate it.

For now like I said, paying off some debts I still owe and saving up cash to do this. If I can get the axles for 100 a pc for brand new spanking toyota parts I would jump for joy. Bearing casing is only like 75 anyways iirc. If not then its off to the yard!

Ok paid of my debts finally and can prepare to buy this stuff.

T100 shafts bolt right up I know this.

Tundra shafts as described till 08/02 (thats august of 02?) will bolt right up or I NEED the new bearing casing and possibly bearing?

Cause my toyota guy fell through and shafts online are $250 or so new, there are no pick and pulls here so ordering one from the yard is what I will have to do unless I buy new.

Again, I appreciate everyones help on this utterly annoying journey to figure out my damned vibration.

That is August 2002 as on the door sill plate, I don't know if it means whether 8/02 is included or not.

Toyota does not list the bearing case you will find on the tundra for use on our trucks. The data implies you will have to get one from the dealer or a Taco.

MAYBE, you will find the Tundra bearing case bolts up to the axle and the T100 brake plate fits on it. They both hold the same bearing.

You need the bearing. Even if the bearing case fits, you will have to install the T brake, and you will want to get the seals... Taking it apart destroys the bearing and collar.

The bearing for the old axle that you have now is some standard part like a 6308. The bearing for the new axle has an extended race that pokes out from one side. This is how to make sure you have the right one for the new axle.

Ok so it seems I will most likely need that new bearing casing if I get a tundra shaft. It can be found on tacos and tundras of what year again? Dealer only part?? Also the gaskets are from what, a tundra, t100 or taco?

I was of course gonna replace the bearing too.

FWIW looking at the FSM this doesnt seem overly complicated as I had thought.

Seems to be a bolt on and off kinda deal. I can nab the new T100 axle shaft for 268 online, or I can try and hope to find one at the yard and replace other junk.

If I get the T100 axle online I can also order all the gaskets, the bearing casing I assume doesnt have to be changed, i need a snap ring and the oil seals. Probably should replace the lug studs too while im in there.

FSM also says I need an "ABS speed sensor rotor" and a "bearing retainer" of some kind since I have ABS. These seem to fit together.

The bearing I can buy either online, at the dealer or perhaps at the machine shop who will press the old out and the new one in. Thats what the mechanic I was gonna take it to said he would do anyways.

Otherwise looks like maybe a good hour job or so? my only issue is how the heck do I stop the brake line from leaking once I remove it? Remove the rear wheel cylinder and throw it on while the line is off of everything?? I know I can stuff a rag into the axle tub to stop that leak if need be.

It cant be that simple can it?

You can git a hose clamp pliers to pinch off the rubber line... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Tool...
Another tool...

I figure you could cap it off with a rubber cap or something... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Kinda figured I could use those kinda hose pliers. I have wrapped vise grips up with a cloth before too lol..

vacuum caps.
slide the fitting out of the way and jam one over each flare. there's no avoiding some fluid loss (and a brake bleed), but you can keep the m/c full for weeks with the lines terminated that way.

i've made pencils work, too. pens get eaten away after a while.

New axle new bearings, seals too. No way you are going to get the bearing off and use it again; also the bearing on the axle you will be getting is different to the one on your truck now.

It will take longer than an hour since you will have to take apart your old axle to get the brake off. There is a pretty good write up in the maintenance section of this website. I could not get the rings or bearing off the axles by banging or pressing and had to resort to a grinder and chisel.

The parts list says you need a different bearing case, which is pretty important as it holds the axle into the tube. I am sure the axle is significantly different because the inside of the bearing is wider so the snap ring groove must be in a different position. However the axle is [should be] the same length and the outer race of the new bearing has the same dimensions, what has changed in the bearing case? Both of them bolt onto this axle housing.

Timken has the bearing, it might come with the ABS ring, retaining ring, and/or snap ring, you can see pictures on rockauto, I think the big bearing is listed for 98 T100.

There are some parts on the flange end of the axle: lug bolts, deflector plate and a thick paper gasket. Pressing the lug bolts out ruins the deflector plate. If you get a used axle leave all this alone and use it as is. There is no reason to get new bolts unless one is bent or something and if you see bent bolts on a used axle you should pass on it.

Everyone has a different way to deal with the dripping brake line so I will share mine too. I cut the finger off a latex glove and shove half a Q tip into the hole.

If you jack up one side of the axle at a time to work on, oil will not drip out. If it is level there is a ridge just inside the tube that keeps most of the oil in. This ridge also props up the axle so it doesn't sit on the seal if it is unbolted and hanging out a little.