I just changed; coolant temp sensor, coolant switch, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and I tried to clean out the egr,and I unplugged all other connectors and sprayed electrical cleaner in them.
It still idles at about 2k when cold, it takes about 10 minutes to 'warm up' and then idles at about 900, which I guess is close enough, but all the while it runs like ***** during this cold period, lacks power, and surges like fuel delivery.
Any ideas?

Sounds suspiciously like an IAC. Have you ever cleaned the throttle plate and not covered the holes to it? If not, then the coils may be fried. Not cheap, but easy to fix.

EDIT: Maybe somebody will chime in with the test procedure for it. Or, follow MontyMcV's sig to the FSM's <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

This shows how to clean the ISC
Throttle Body / ISC cleaning

From memory there are 6 pins in the connector

1--2--3
4--5--6

If you check the resistance between pins 1 & 2 you should get 28/33ohms
then pins 2 & 3 again 28/33ohms (56/66 between 1 & 3)
Then repeat for pins 4 & 5, 5 & 6 with 28/33ohm (56/66 between 4 & 6)
The link above shows where to fing the ISC

SteveN <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I thought the truck was supposed to idle high when cold.

Being new to owning a Raider... I thought it's "just what they do". Mine runs at 2K when cold and I let it run that way for approx. 1 minute. Tap my foot on the gas pedal and it comes down to normal idle.
If I don't let it warm for at least a minute at high idle I get terrible performance (hesitation) until I turn the engine off and rerestart after a short rest. (minute?)

Very interesting, I'll try that after about a minute and see what happens. Thanks for your input.

Bear in mind that BucsFanJim has an '88, which is the carbureted 4 cylinder engine, so by tapping the throttle he's just letting the choke plate kick down off the high step on the cam. Your V-6's idle is controlled by the ECU adjusting the Idle Air Controller motor (also known as the Idle Speed Control motor). Blipping the throttle on your engine will probably not make as much of a difference.

Have you done the test procedure on the IAC yet?

Also, the fact that you say it is taking ~10 minutes to warm up sounds like you have have a stuck-open thermostat. If that's the case, the ECU is running in open-loop mode (or whatever they call it) waiting for the temperature to come up. I believe it boosts the fuel flow to the engine in that mode but I'm not sure. Hopefully some of the more knowledgeable on the board will chime in. In the meantime, if you haven't run the test procedure on the IAC, do so! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.

Good to know. I just went to the Junk Yard again and I found a nearly new EGR and I picked up a IAS or IAT which ever it is, I have taken that apart and cleaned it real good, I'll switch it out along with the EGR one at a time and see what happens. If that is no help I will do your test with the multimeter and then I'll look at a thermostat.
Thanks very much for all your help.
Jon

Is it not supposed to idle high when cold? I thought there was some kind of thermo thing in the throttle body that opened up when it got warm.

well I switched out the IAT or IAS and the idle changed but was still high, it was about 1500, so I cleaned mine and put it back in and it's back at 2000.
I was going to switch out the EGR I got at the Junk Yard but the tube is on the bottom instead of the top, does anyone know if this will matter? I can just run the air line to the bottom instead I think.
I'm going to try that test next.