Talk about late to the party... dang looks like this tread was from 2 years ago, but thats not going to stop me from trying. Well guess what i also have a 91 LS Trooper with the stock 2.8 in her, and well to say it's tired would be a understatment. When i first bought her i took her valve covers off to check the motor and what did i find but a 1" thick layer of black fur all over the motor. So needless to say a rebuild was on my list. Apon doing ALOT of research on it, i found the 3.4 upgrade you all have been talking about in this forum and i must say that i am more than interested.

So here's the questions:
#1 i don't want to wait till i can afford to buy a new motor so does anyone know where to get a good used?
#2 I am planning on buying new fuel injectors (ok reman'd) and the TBI spacer, will these fit to the next motor if i go that route?
#3 I have com acrost this web dealer http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm2834stkr.html claiming to just kit the present engine up to the 3.4 lvl with a new block. Is this visable for what i would want?
#4 Also i am planning on lifting the truck up 3 inch with a suspention redo with this kit http://www.pureisuzu.com/3_87-91_trooper.htm Has anyone got tips or info? Is this a good kit to get?

Well 4 is a good start here's hoping this aint a dead thread!!!

OK, here goes, I can help with some of these:

1) Check your local wrecking yards or www.craigslist.org for a 3.4 from a '93-'95 Camaro or Firebird. Doesn't matter if it's an automatic or manual trans, either will adapt regardless of the trans in the ZuZu.

Another good source online is www.car-part.com which is a nation-wide+ collection of wrecking yard databases, you just may find a good one in your area. Check eBay as there are some deals to be found.

2) You might want to wait on the injectors, the 3.4 requires larger injectors (from a 4.3 V6 TBI). Or, just pick up a 4.3 TBI and do that mod to the existing motor, using the 2.8 TBI injector pod. When you swap-in the 3.4, just restore the 4.3 injector pod to the TBI and away you go. There's a lot of info here on how to do the 4.3 TBI swap, use the Search feature. Or we'll get into that more at a later time.

3) Not recommended. Boring a 2.8 block to 3.4 specs puts it far past the maximum recommended oversize. Note they say that each block must be sonically tested. That's because the bores are so thin that any 'core shift' in the block will likely rupture the bore into a water passage. Even if there's [barely] enough meat in the 2.8 block to work, all it'd take is one overheat or minor scoring/scuffing issue and the block's worthless. At least with a regular 3.4 block, you'd be able to rebuild it again. Another good reason not to, the 3.4 block was strengthened to handle the extra power (up to 200hp normally-aspirated, with a few Hot-Rod goodies).

4) Calmini stuff is of good quality and quite $$$ too. Here's another place with a lot of aftermarket accessories for on-road and off:

www.independent4x.com

Anyhow, I'm sure there's plenty other swappers who will chime in.

Meanwhile, take a gander at the World's Longest Isuzu 3.4 Swap Thread:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=33457

Some companion threads:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=33051

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=35134

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic....a89b8ef6409f2a7

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=35953

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=26253

Anyway, that oughta keep you happily reading for a while!

These threads will likely answer most any question you may have about the swap. Feel free to post with others.

I do have a packet of info including swap writeups, tuning tips, etc etc that I can send along if you'd like.

Just post a Private Message to me (be sure to include your e-mail address) and I'll forward the info to you.

HTH & Enjoy!...........ed

Ok so my last post got timed out so i will take that as the sign that it was to much. So here is the abriged version.

#1 Can i take a 4.3 space and mount it on the stock intake and tbi without causing issues?

Also i failed to find a 4.3 tbi with the links i have, any ideas?

Also on the 2.8 pod on the 4.3 tbi idea, can i do this while i put money together: Mount the 4.3 spacer (1" solid aluminum) and 4.3 tbi base to the non-bored intake, to avoid the bottom valve binding issue, with the 2.8 tbi pod on the top?

Reasons for this is i am on a budget. Like nuns bum tight <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> budget. Can you recomened any other worthy upgrades to do to the 2.8 that can cross to the 3.4 in the future?

Here are the parts i am looking at:
http://marine-performance-parts.com/gmtbiperformance.aspx
and
https://www.independent4x.com/merch...p?cPath=64_65_75&products_id=293

thoughts about them?

And btw thank you to the 1 millioth power for the help i will be hitting you up for that packet.

YOU THE MAN ED <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Here's a few thoughts on the sequence of power mods:

Doing the larger TBI without boring out the intake to match will work, however you won't see as large a diff in performance, breathing thru the smaller intake holes.

This injector pod spacer is a cheap way to get more airflow out of your existing TBI:

https://www.independent4x.com/merch...p?cPath=64_65_75&products_id=293

Being on a budget, the most Bang for your Buck$ at this point would be to upgrade the exhaust. These motors respond very well to airflow upgrades, but if you can't get it out of the engine, don't make a lot of diff what you're putting in.

Have a muffler shop chop off the old cat at the exhaust "wye" and splice in a new 2-1/4" exhaust system including upgraded cat.

Since you're trying to go economical, a generic "turbo" muffler and Catco brand (or otherwise cheap cat) replacement cat will do the job, and you'll have a nice growl at idle without irritating booming going down the road.

There's a lot of places online where you'll find inexpensive exhaust components, also take a look at www.jegs.com or www.summitracing.com to see what they offer.

Here's a Magnaflow performance 2.25" cat I found at one site for less than $55 shipped:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Ma...+%26+Drivetrain

Here's an $18.95 shipped turbo muffler I found at Amazon with a simple Google search for "turbo muffler":

http://www.amazon.com/Thrush-17715-Muffler-Overall-outlet/dp/B00029J3AW

Plenty more stuff like that out there, I'd guess.

If you have a decent local muffler shop (not a chain, they all Suck!), they may have competitive pricing on the parts. Have them bend up a new tail section without all the extreme bends of the stock exhaust. If you take a look underneath you'll see how the muffler can be angled better for a straigher flow, then you don't need all the crazy kinks the factory used.

Once your exhaust is finished and your finances allow, another good improvement is to add 1.6:1 roller-tipped rocker arms. The increased ratio from stock rockers will increase valve lift, just like installing a performance cam but a lot easier since you don't have to tear the front of the motor off, or even remove the intake.

Comp Cams makes a nice set of Magnum roller-tipped rockers for the GM V6, they are very nice and also a bit $pendy.

Small Block Chevys use the same type of rocker arm. The only difference is the V8 rocker arm balls mount on 3/8" studs whereas the V6 rocker balls mount on 10mm studs. So, if you pick up a set of V8 1.6:1 rockers and use V6 rocker balls, you're good to go!

I used a set of Magnum rockers in my old 2.8 Troop (which my folks now have), and the rockers are still working well after 12 years of family ownership. As are the cheap eBay V8 rockers I put in my 3.4.

http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/RockerArms/MagnumRoller.asp

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390152589021&

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200423477492&

Either way they work great and really pep up the powerband, especially when combined with improved exhaust.

Once you have that taken care of, later on you may want to try the 4.3 TBI mods (but you'll still need to bore the intake for best effect).

With better exhaust you probably will notice a difference even without boring the intake, but it really does make that much difference to take out the holes the same size as the 4.3 TBI.

If you don't bore the intake and use the 4.3 TBI, you'll definitely have to use the spacer or the throttle plates will hit.

Take note that with a TBI spacer you can't flip the air cleaner lid. The lid will hit the hood (unless you have a body lift). That's why I cut a hole in my air cleaner and spliced in another air snorkel off an old S-10 air cleaner. I couldn't stand the noise of a "swiss-cheesed" air cleaner lid (which was my Poor-Man's breathing improvement for a while!). With a Non-Holey air cleaner lid in its normal position, the dual-snorkels flow plenty of air for even a 3.4.

The advantage of having a fully functional air cleaner with heat stove working is faster warmups in the winter. If you flip the lid you're not gonna suck in much warm air off the exhaust manifold.

Definitely gotta do something with the air cleaner though, unmodified it's very 'wheezy' and really holds the motor back. The Power Tips article had some good suggestions on that.

Re: boring the intake, if you're really handy you can bore it in place with a hole saw (I used a 90 deg drive attachment chucked up in a 3/8" electric drill). Just stuff lotsa rags down the intake to keep the metal chips out. Then vacuum out anything that did slip by.

It won't be as pretty as an intake done at the machine shop, but it'll work.

Note that you'll need to bolt that metal spacer onto the intake to keep the hole saw from walking around.

Anyway, there's a few thoughts for ya! I'll be sending along some swap info in a bit too. Enjoy!.......ed

Hey Ed back again, Man i got a messed up work schedule. Needless to say it's my weekend atm so i wanted to take some time to get back to you. I read the entire Planet Isuzu post that you hooked me up with and it was like reading a good book. The twists the turns and finally the motor finale, getting in there then he had the oil leak and surgin issues, lol. Well needless to say i am convinced on this and will be happy to do it.

K, now to the tools i got:
I have a stand but no picker i got a drill press but no drill saw. So can i use a press to do the intake? I got a full set of 12v cordless and i am pretty sure ones a grinder. I got the general tools for the job being that this aint my first rodeo. Just the first one at this place.

Am i seriously going to have to weld that dAmn pick up tube to the oil pickup. From what i was reading i thought you could just use the one from the 2.8? Ow well i am sure it says it in you book you sent.

I also have one concern my Trooper is set up with the oil cooler stock, as his was in that forum, so it looks like i will be needing to grind of a couple of bosses to keep the cooler. but i'll deal with that when i get to it.
I was looking at the way his oil adapter plate fit on his block and i gotta say it looks different than mine. I don't think his was stock to the truck. And that bolt, eww, copper brazed is all i can say to that.

At any rate i was planning on doing some work on the truck as soon as the injectors get here and i wanted to know if this part http://marine-performance-parts.com/cfmtechinjectorspacerforgmtbi435057.aspx is going to be ok. I thought it better than getting the full inch billet spacer that goes under the tbi. Instead this one goes in the tbi to raise the injector up the barrel a bit without raising the air can. I am still planing on getting the other spacer as well cause well i was raised on muscle and i know that better mix makes more power.

I was also looking at this https://www.independent4x.com/merch...p?cPath=64_65_75&products_id=379
Good?? bad?? I figure more=better for sparkin

Man back yarding this thing is going to be crazy if you could see the garage i am going to do this in you would cry. Needless to say i will have to pull the engine in the driveway and have to roll it (the engine) in the garage. Well i am still reading and still planning and again i thank you for the wealth of knowledge. Keep coming with those low price good part man.

Funny thing about the exhaust is i just got the muffler and rear out to bummper pipe replaced last summer DOH <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> guess thats 300 i dont need to let the wife know was a waste eh?

That muffler and catback, will that still let me deq down the road? Oregon is a pain like that.

Was doing more research on this idea:

Small Block Chevys use the same type of rocker arm. The only difference is the V8 rocker arm balls mount on 3/8" studs whereas the V6 rocker balls mount on 10mm studs. So, if you pick up a set of V8 1.6:1 rockers and use V6 rocker balls, you're good to go!

And my question is will i have to change to the 3/8 studs in the head and if so how would this be done?

Or i may just need more clearifacation about this, i did a swap over with oem parts on a s-10 but didn't have time to put it back on due to time issues so my buddy ended up doing it. In other words i don't know how to do this i suppose. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> But i do like the idea as my moto chatters pretty good and all signs point to the rockers and springs. I assume i will be able to swap these onto the 3.4 later correct?

The V8 and V6 rocker balls are physically identical except for the hole in the middle. The V8 and V6 rocker arms (the old-style, non-self-aligning type) are interchangeable.

If you use the V6 balls with 10mm hole with V8 rockers they'll bolt right up to the existing 10mm studs in the V6 heads.

No need to change studs at all. I did this very mod to my 3.4. The Small Block Chev V8 rockers were a fair amount cheaper than the Comp Cams Magnum rocker set for a V6, and after 8 yrs they seem to be holding up!

Since the 2.8 and 3.4 have identical heads and valvetrain, the above parts are interchangeable between motors no problem.

Far as springs go, GM sells a set of performance springs used for more valve lift in the HT 3.4 motor. Here's the part #:

"12363215 ù Valve Spring
This valve spring is used in the new 3.4-liter engine conversion package
(P/N 12363230) and designed for moderate performance usage.
Manufactured from chrome silicon wire, this spring produces 105 pounds of
seat pressure at an installed height of 1.70" and 296 pounds open pressure
at a height of 1.20".
Technical Note: Use with retainer P/N 12363216."

Here's a good thread on valve spring options:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB86&Number=900873

Anyway, a shame you had that $$ exhaust done last year, they probably used the original 1-7/8" piping too. Probably would've cost very little more for larger diameter at the time of replacement.

Hate to say it but it's difficult to achieve significant gains from improvements made under the hood (especially with a 2.8 in there) if the exhaust isn't first 'uncorked'.

As per your other post, the injector pod spacer is a nice economical way to get a bit more airflow.

And the MSD Blaster coil is the same one I have on my 3.4. It was easy to install, bolted-in just like the stock one.

Can't say it made a huge difference but certainly has more spark energy than stock and besides, it's Red!! Get some nice heavy-duty red wires to match and it'll look sweet!

Cheers.......ed