Ignition wires are usually of the resistance type with carbon conductors which reduce current for good RF interference suppression. The resistance/foot varies with carbon content and age, but is generally 3-8k ohms/foot.

If Mitsu used the same wires for your engine as the Gen1s, the shorter wires should measure about 8-9k ohms and the longer ones should measure 10-12k ohms.

You may have your meter set on the wrong scale. If you have a 20k ohm scale, try that. If you continue to get the zero and 17-18k ohm readings, I'd say your wires are shot and probably the cause of the coil failure.

If I didn't know the condition of the wires for certain, I'd replace them on principle - particularly after a coil failure. At a minimum, if you're getting screwy readings, replace the wires - again, they could be the cause of the coil damage. If after replacing the coil and wires you still have an issue, suspect the PCM - the coil driver may be damaged inside the computer.

I would also replace the plugs and make certain they're gapped correctly. Today's engines with computers need a good spark..... and a breakdown in spark quality can lead to electronic problems. Coil failure can be due to bad/worn plugs or too much plug gap.

Finally, coil failures can sometimes be traced to lean fuel mixtures - perhaps caused by dirty injectors, faulty EGR systems or vacuum leaks..... not likely in your case, but worth knowing.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum