Well, I'm helping my buddy rebuild the v6 in his 90 RS. We got the motor out tonight and this week I'll start disassembling and cleaning. It blew the head gasket and just started making a milk shake in the crankcase. It appears to have already had heads done on it and this is the same engine I fixed the harmonic balancer on (which is still holding solid!). Anyway, I'm doing a new crank (well rebuilt one since his crank snout is junked), bearing, oil pump, pistons, etc. I just thought I'd ask if anyone knows of any gotchas I should be on the look out for where the 3.0L is concerned. Any useful tips/advice would be appreciated. Oh and the torque converter came out with the engine, and I thought someone mentioned it being difficult to get fully seated. Is there any spec measurement one can do from the bell flange or something?

On a side note, whoever touched this thing before me was a real um, shady shade tree mechanic. Lot's of missing bolts, too long of bolts, etc. You know those huge gusset brackets that go from the engine to the bottom of the trans bell housing? yea, only one of the four bolts was there. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

I'll post up some pictures when I can of the progress (though don't be expecting it to look like one of Franks engines! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> ) My buddy is on a limited budget so this is strictly an as needed rebuild. I had put a new water pump/belt on when I did the crank pulley, and he'll need a new radiator now (his is leaking everywhere, which is probably why it over heated in the first place).


-Todd
1987 Montero 2.6l 5-speed (Sold...but I still miss her)
2008 Jeep Patriot Sport 4x4