Todd -

The bottom end is straightforward, but:

1) Take a hard look at the decks for etching. Coolant over time etches the decks and too much can cause leaks and gasket sealing issues.

2) Total milling of the deck and head combined should not be more than .008". Head thickness OE spec is 3.310".

3) Watch the clamping range of the head bolts - use a bottoming tap and check for bolt length. You might need to grind some bolts to length to keep them from bottoming/binding.

4) Install a new timing belt tensioner and spring. Take care the locating pin on the oil pump is in the hole in the tensioner bracket.

5) I have my engine out and can measure the converter depth if you like, but remember that it engages 2 splined shafts... put some light pressure on the converter face and turn it - you'll feel both engagements. When it's fully seated, the engine will go flush to the bellhousing without pressure.

6) If you're dealing with a lockup torque converter, either grind the converter bolts .010" or so - or get new ones.... they stretch and can cause internal converter damage on the lockup units.

7) Use RTV between the cam towers and head when you assemble the valve train. Use RTV in the inside corners of the tower area when you install the valve covers.

8) Head bolt torque value should be 80 lb-ft.

9) Check the heads for warpage - also the lower intake manifold flanges.

10) Check the valve guides - the exhaust guides in particular have a habit of dropping.

11) Since the heads may have already been milled, be careful about thickness - see above wrt milling allowances.

12) To get initial oil pressure, either pre-pack the pump, prime with oil after installation and/or loosen the oil filter and apply light air pressure (4psi) to the valve cover while turning it over until oil gushes from the filter (messy, but it works).

Good luck,
Frank