Then I'd think the problem is in the ignition switch circuit.

You could try hot-wiring the coil to see if it'll start, but it's sorta tricky to do, so I don't really recommend it. If you have a junkyard nearby, try getting the rear half of another ignition switch - or if you want to throw parts at it, the dealer can get a new one for you.

If you want to trace the problem, remove the undercover on the steering column and trace the ignition pigtail back to the connector B-67 under the dash. There is a black/white wire coming into the connector and another black/white wire leaving the connector. With the ignition switch in the RUN position, both of those wires should read 12v+.

Frank

Hae you checked the all of the fuses?

Ed

Yes all the fuses and fusable links are good.. I just got back into town today.. I'm gonna test the ignition switch as suggested tonight.. And I'll post my findings in the morning.. Have to get another tester (the hood doesn't close well when the multimeter is laying under the latch). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Ken

DOH!!! That sucks...

UPDATE AND CORRECTION:

Ok Took the day off yesturday to fix this truck.

Bought
ECU
Coil
Dist Cap
Rotor
PlugWires
Sparkplugs
replaced all fusable links

Long story short.. Still No Spark.

First gotta clear up some wrong info from the prior posts.. Turns out my Mulitmeter was malfuntioning.. When I bought a new one and retested my results were.

Key ON:
Power out of coil 12V
Power to fuelpump
And Fuelpump does surge at key Turn.

Key ON Turning over:
Power to coil 11V
power out of coil 9V


Replaced all the parts above one by one with no change.

Here is what boggles the mind.. Power going into distributer (coil plug connection) But no power coming out of Spark Plug Wire Connections of Distributer Cap. Even with new rotor and cap.

So I know u have to build up power to the coil then break ground to get a shot of spark to jump from rotor to points.. SO i did the dangerous!! and connected to coil straight to the battery with jumpers.. And had someone turn the truck over While I tapped the ground to build up spark..

Truck Randomly fired.. !!!!!!!

So seems the problem is whatever controls the breaking of the ground to build up coil spark.. ANYONE KNOW WHERE THIS COMES FROM OR IS CONTROLLED.. (MY GUESS-IGNITION COIL POWER TRANSISTOR) or earlier refered to as (stupid lil box near coil) So ordered one should be in tonight.. $90 bucks.. ugg..

So any Idea's.. I threw my wallet at it yesturday and still nothing..

There is a test for the power transistor. Using a 1.5v source (1 AA batteries should be close enough) you put power on the PT as follows:

looking at the PT connector (on the PT!), the terminals are 1,2,3, with the catch up.

Connect the negative (-) terminal of the 1.5 power
supply to terminal 2 of the power transistor, then check
whether there is continuity between terminal 2 and
terminal 3 when terminal 1 and the positive (+) battery terminal are connected and disconnected.
Terminal 1 and (+) terminal connected, continuity between terminals 2 & 3

No battery connection, no continuity.

I think you have a bad PT given your test results.

Or a bad distributor optical module.

Frank

I opened it up and looked at the optipcle module.. And was wondering about that.. Is there a test to check it?

If I understand the distributor correctly........ <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

The module looks through 2 slotted window radials with an IR beam. The row of 6 slots is the main firing trigger and the single slot is the crankshaft offset for base timing reference.

You can pull the distributor and bench test it with your voltmeter. Look at the harness leads to determine what's what on the distributor connector pins. Apply 12v+ to the positive lead (black w red stripe). Apply 12v(-) to the black lead. Turn the distributor and check for switched 5v+ or so on the green lead - that's the main firing trigger and switches every 60*. The white lead will also toggle voltage, but it's for 1* fine ECU control adjustment below 1500 rpms and idle, so you may not have enough resolution to see this toggle accurately..... but you should still see some movement.

Frank

Can you believe it was that stupid lil box next to the coil.. !! Started right up..

But now once it warms up I get really low oil presure.. Any Ideas?