Ok, so it's been WAY too long since I've last posted...which was once. I recently brought my 87 2.6 Auto Montero home, which has a Raider transplanted engine by the way, and the carb has been targetted as the culprit for my problems.

NOW, I have a couple questions about what I should do.

1) Should I just have the one on the engine rebuilt? If so, can anyone recommend a kit number, and maybe an estimate of what it would cost to have it rebuilt?

2) Should I just buy a new carb off eBay? I've seen a couple Weber carbs, though I don't know if anyone has had bad luck with those? Link provided:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Webe...itemZ300230866083QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Let me first state that I have zero knowledge of carbs, at all. So any help in this matter will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I think you should look at your states emmissions testing. I think california wont let you have the weber on the road.

I got my reman carb a couple years ago from FC Products and I haven't looked back. It's been fantastic for my engine.

I apreciate the responses, though, no offense intended, I didn't get the answers I was expecting.

I live in MN, and we have no emissions testing, so any carb that would work is fine. All I know is I NEED to get this fixed soon, and I'm curious on what my choices are and what their general cost would be. The Montero doesn't want to run, or hangs on my a lifeline when it does, so I'd like to fix this promptly.

Thanks everyone.

If you have no emissions to worry about, you generally have 2 options: A replacement stock Mikuni or a Weber conversion. There are pro's and con's to both and there are really good discussions about them on here if you search the forum.

In a nutshell:

The Mikuni is reliable, better in below-freezing temperatures, and engineered to work at extreme angles. The bad news is that it doesn't make a lot of power, it's complicated, and it's more expensive to replace (and nearly impossible to fix if it stops working right).

The Weber makes more power, it's simple & cheap(er), and it's easy to fix/replace parts. The bad news is that may require more adjustment, it's not heated with engine coolant (may freeze up in very cold conditions), and it's been known to not work when the truck is tipped over at extreme angles.

Hope that helps alittle.

Thank you for the input...gives me alot to think about. Now, for my next question: How hard would it be for me, a guy with no carb experience, but decent mechanical experience, to tackle removing the old carb and installing a new one...possibly a Weber? Anything on the Weber that needs to be changed from the stock setup, or anything that isn't used?

Removing the stock Mikuni is not difficult, but before you start make sure you drain the coolant down to the point that there is no more coolant coming out of the rubber bypass hose at the carburetor. The mikuni is heated by the engine coolant to prevent icing, so if you pull it without draining the coolant you'll dump coolant into the intake(not a good thing...). There are four main bolts holding the carburetor to the intake manifold, then you need to pull the throttle cable, 5 or 6 vacuum hoses(usually two on the back, 4 or 5 facing the drivers fender, and 1 on the front for the AAP), a line to the charcoal canister, and the electrical connection plug. Once all that is unhooked you can lift it straight away.

I don't have any advice on installing the Weber progressive conversion, but I would imagine most of the existing vacuum lines will be capped if you go this route. You won't need the AAP connection, and you probably cannot use the EGR valve. You probably cannot use the AC idle up solenoid. You would most definitely want something hooked to the vacuum advance for driveability reasons, and I don't know if your auto tranny needs a vacuum load signal for shifting or if it has a cable. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can point you in the right direction if you go that route.

As far as the 'icing' I hear about with the weber conversion, if you can use the stock aircleaner, the hot-air door on the stock aircleaner should keep you from freezing up. If you dump the stock air cleaner I can see where the carb would have a tendency to ice up under high humidity conditions. Happens on the VW's all the time when people who haven't got a clue cut the pre-heat pipes off of the intake manifold.

Chris

Unless you have a body-lift installed, you likely won't be able to install the stock air cleaner onto a Weber carb. As I understand it, the Weber is taller, so if you install the stock air cleaner housing, you won't be able to close the hood. I'm not sure what others here have done to address that.

the new weber kit i got came with a air cleaner.that is what i used on the bro's monty.

Put a TB FI setup on there. Only trickly part there is what to do with the turbo from the donor... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />