for fixing it i would just go with the electric pump since youre going to turbo anyways. a walbro 190lph inline should be more than enough for the starquest motor but your going to need 1 hell of a regulator to bypass enough fuel to feed that carb properly.

Anyone know exactly what seals I'll need? Are they a dealer only part or NAPAvailable?

Don't know whether or not they are available at NAPA. The P/Ns are as follows:

INSULATOR, FUEL PUMP (in case your's is cracked, thus leaking)
PNC CODE - 05513
P/N - MD023389
REPL P/N - MD187952
QTY - 1

GASKET, FUEL PUMP
PNC CODE - 05510
P/N - MD023388
REPL P/N - MD190929
QTY - 2

The insulator, you probably won't need, but you'll need the gaskets.

...and are you gonna be in Westminster in the near future in need of lots of beer and a project? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

So how do I get the motor to TDC for the removal of the fuel pump?

Pay the shipping and I've got the dash grab handle for you from another red 87 Mitsu.

Welcome! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Maybe a beer or two (I don't drink much), but I make it a habit of not drinking any alcohol at all when I'm packin' heat (and I likely would be). A couple Cokes should do. I'm fairly flexible on when (I think), so let me know when's good for you. I can play a little show 'n tell with my truck as well.



Disconnect the battery (if turning crank with a socket).

Locate the #1 cylinder wire and follow it to the distributor. Note the location of where the #1 plug wire goes into the distributor. Use a grease-pencil or something like that to mark the distributor where that terminal is (but don't mark it on the distributor cap because you're going to be pulling the distributor cap).

Pull the spark plugs out and disconnect the coil wire.

Use a socket on the front of the crankshaft to crank it clockwise (as you're facing the engine) or you can have someone else bump the starter in little bits (just be sure it's safe to do so).

Find the timing marks (on the front cover of the engine near the upper edge of the crankshaft pulley) and as your turning the crank, locate the timing notch on the crank pulley. Get that notch directly lined up with the TDC mark on the timing marks. It's the center-most mark. You'll probably have to turn it the last little bit with a socket...if you do, get your assistant out of the driver's seat to avoid a bad accident. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Once the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the TDC mark, check the distributor rotor. If the rotor is pointing at the mark you made on the distributor earlier, then you've got it set to #1 TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke and you're all set to start in on the fuel pump.

If, however, the rotor is pointing 180? away from the #1 terminal (the mark you made earlier), then it's currently at TDC of the EXHAUST stroke, so you'll need to rotate the crank 360? more. Once you turn it 360? more and the crank pulley notch is directly lined up with the TDC mark, AND the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 plug wire terminal on the distributor, then you're good to go.

Clear as mud? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />