I was thinking about punching it incase it's clogged. I hadn't thought about the lack of backpressure affecting it!

Good call. (I should'a ordered a friggen oxy sensor)

The condition of the cat may need an exhaust gas check to determine.
O2 sensors aren't cheap, don't fail often, can be a real bear to remove, and they're not too hard to check with a volt meter on a working engine. You probably don't need one. Sounds like you got the big 2-manual factory manuals coming, and they help a lot with some of this stuff, too.
Once you get the air filter in, correct the fuel pump issue and let Joe poke around a bit, you can probably check most of the systems then, assuming it fires up...
There's still lots of vacuum hose and vacuum controllers to keep you awake at night, and they will need to get checked. You may need a secondary actuator (Mitsu's aptly named Depression Chamber) replaced if its membrane is broken. And it wouldn't hurt to check the distributors vac advance as well. Again, Joe's your man.

That rad I've got (I'm pretty sure I still do) came out of a freshly scrapped vehicle I came across in a wreckers yard, where it looked like they replaced the rad, then gave up on the engine and scrapped the truck. It looks new. I pulled it to add to my spare parts collection about 4 years back. It very definitely doesn't need rodding out.

Awesome!

I forgot to mention, the truck runs fine right now. I've been monitoring the oil leak and driving a bit. It's got 71 miles since I bought it and drove it home. There is some mild hesitation under load, but it idles, starts right up and cruises fine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Just need to iron out the kinks.

Just wanted to pop in with a welcome! I usually post over on the smoky side these days, but I'm still lurkin round here, read most everything, and am mighty proud of you guys on a daily basis. This thread is typical of the community on this forum. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

So welcome Cochese, and to the rest of you: <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> Heck, I'll even throw out one of these: <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> (Except to Don, to whom I'll say "Happy Canada Day" buddy!)

Phil

Hey Phil,
..and a Happy July 1 to you!
Nice to see you getting out of the "Dark" (smog?) side once in a while!

Cochese,
Good to hear it seems to run ok, that's ALWAYS a good sign!
I ran Castrol 20W50 in mine, it holds up well in the older 2.6L's. But switched to Castrol's Deisel-RATED 15W40 and found it had better viscosity at temp. Not sure what weight you'd need in your winters though.

Here's a place to check out:
4 years back, I needed some parts while touring back-country Colorado with Greg (lives in Breck), and another guy you haven't heard from yet (Mitch, now in OK) took me to a huge wrecker yard south of Denver, which I GPS'd at the time, and it shows on my GPS map as ~1925 (north side)of West Radcliff Ave, just off #85 (N39 38.210, W105 00.764). Lots of parts trucks, take a look around with a few simple tools in your pockets. If they have any Mitsu's, you may just find some things you'd like on your rig! Pretty soon you'll be on the lookout for bouncy seats, spare lenses, nicer trim pieces, etc. Do keep an eye on your stuff though, as one guy tried to make off with some of our tools...

Regarding CAPS: put the contents of the zip file in a directory called WINCAPS directly on the root of your C: drive (i.e., C:\WINCAPS) then run CAPS.EXE to launch it.

As Don mentioned, you'll need your cat for both passing smog and for proper back-pressure. If your cat is the original (not sure how you'd know other than if it seems to look like it's not 21 years old) it may need changing. I put in a new cat in mine a couple years ago and performance was noticeably improved. I picked one up, along with the attaching hardware, from Advance Auto. Again, as Don mentioned, however, you won't know if you'll need one until you've had a smog check done. IIRC, high HC and/or CO emissions could be attributed to the cat, so if you fail from either of those your cat may be suspect. Just be sure that before you take it in for testing, that you drive it around for about a half-hour beforehand to get the cat good and hot.

As for the O2 sensor, better to check it to see if you're getting the proper readings from it than to just change it. It's seemingly not a difficult job to change it, but if you're unlucky enough to have one of them that has welded itself to the exhaust manifold (like this one) then you could be in for more than you bargained for. Easier to check if you even need to change it in the first place.

That mild hesitation under load you mentioned could be the depression chamber, the cat, or possibly just and old carb needing to be rebuilt. Not sure if someone's mentioned it yet...use NGK plugs. DON'T go get those Bosch 4-points that have suckered some people in (including me). The Bosch's are not good plugs for this engine.

Let me know if you've got a timing light and if your multimeter will register engine RPMs. If not, I'll bring mine my TL and meter. If your timing's not set correctly for the altitude, you'll see a difference. Basic timing is about 7? BTDC, but at this altitude it needs to be about 11? BTDC (IIRC).

To each their own, but I've always just ran 10W30 in mine year-round. I've been using Mobil One.

Don, I know that junkyard on Radcliffe (Colorado Auto Parts http://www.coloradoautoandparts.com). Been there a number of times. It's a big yard, so the odds of finding what you need are fairly good. There are also a couple of Federal, Zuni, and a Pull-N-Save in Aurora, near where I-70 and I-225 meet (http://www.pullnsave.com).

And thanks for the props, Don, but I'm still cutting my teeth on maintaining this engine. I'm more of a suspension and drive-train guy. I'll help as I can, though. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

And, Phil...good to see you drop back over here from the oil-burner's club. You need to poke your head in more often and say hi!

Yippee!!! Joe, you have the farthest to travel, so you name the time. Do I need to rent a spring compressor or any other tools ahead of time? Thanks and see you Tuesday!

By the way, I test fit the OME springs to the Toyota Sequoia spring spacers I puchased and they match right up! Apparently, the Ironman springs don't match up quite as well, but no issues with the OME springs.

I believe I have read that you can put GenII springs in a GenI and get a small suspension lift. My rear springs seem to be good, so you can have them after we put in the OME's.

I won't be able to come join in all the festivities but I should be able to stop by during my lunch break, if you guys are still horsin' around.

I've never done the coil-spring lift, but it seems easy enough. A spring-compressor should come in handy.



While that's true, it only applies to Gen I V6 models, which have coil springs. The trucks with the 4-banger have leaf springs, so the extra coils are useless to us. Besides, mine is already lifted.

I'm sure someone else might want them. Once you're done installing and test-driving the new springs, I suppose you could post them up in the For Sale section for the cost of shipping.

Paul, sorry you can't make it, but hope to see you for lunch. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

What's the address you guys are going to be at? Do you want to PM me?