One last task for you guys while you have the valve cover off.

Check the head gasket torque (I like 79ft lbs) and reseal the rear cam bearing. Cut the fingers off two rubber gloves. loosen up all the cam bearing bolts a little at a time, evening up the strain of the valve springs against the bearings/shafts until the strain is off plus a little. slip the glove fingers over the hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA's) to hold them in the rockers when you lift the shafts off. loosen the cam bearing bolts the rest of the way, and leave them in the shafts. lift off the rockers and shafts and upper cam bearings as a unit (WATCH the cam to be sure it doesn't lever up at the rear due to timing chain tension) - you left the bolts in to keep the stuff from sliding off the shafts. Inspect the cam bearing suface (upper bearing cap inner faces and cam bearing running surface) for scoring. minor you can live with for a while. Remove and reseal with rtv the rear cam plug that either came off with the upper rear bearing cap or stayed in the head. While you're at it, put a light smear of rtv on the mating surface of upper cam bearing cap and head, on the head side. Avoid any holes/passages in the cap. Replace the rocker shaft assy, tightening the bolts evenly to the book torque (25ftlbs??), and slip the glove fingers off before you get it too tight.

I TOLD YOU THREE TIMES!!! Rod out or replace the radiator. I really enjoy saying "Toldja so. Toldja so. Nya nya na na na...". Don't give me the opportunity to do so, cause you wont like it worth a damn. If you still need convincing, do a search on "overheating" and "head gasket" and see how many posters you see posting a type o, then a type hg post.

I told you to check the head bolt torque for a good reason, too. Betcha find at least one loose one, due to a previous overheat.