I had the passenger rear shoe liner come off a few weeks ago, so it was time for a rear brake job. Got the pass. side off with a propane torch, but the driver side refused to budge. So I took a couple of lunch periods at work and pounded out a breake drum puller that bolts to the lug studs and uses a 3/4 inch jack screw against the axle hub. I've got a design for a nicer looking one that would actually pull evenly. (did I mention I did mine quick and dirty?) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Just wondering if any of you might be interested in something like this. I could potentially use a metric bolt in the center if someone really needed it, too.

By the way, since I had the rear wheels off anyway, I decided to mount up my steelies and LT235/75/15 all terrains to see how everything goes. I'll have pics up on my CarDomain assuming everything goes well.

Mine did same on driver side 2 days ago.
The drum came out using the 2 screws that are inserted in the drum: just remove the screws from their resting place (they have no function at all there) then insert in the 2 threaded holes near the hub center and screw in ...I did some heating with the acetylene torch before so as not to ruin the threads with too much torque. It came off quite easily.

I know one thing that we all are interested in Jesse......



.......Those SKID PLATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What do you say friend??????????????????????? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

...went to other side to change brake shoes: with hub bolts off, I reinstalled the wheel and bumped the tire...with some conviction. The drum pulled away in seconds.
Now this syndrome of show linings separating is something that was rare years ago. OF course, those using rivets would not separate, but bonded type would certainly stay until worn out. I found the one that separated might have been contaminated by a very small amount of brake fluid as some trace existed on the brake cylinder (no trace on the other side..and linings were tightly bonded): hey I had seen fluid and oil contamination in severla occasions long time ago and linings would stay on and after some thourough cleaning, went back in service...but I suspect DOT3 type fluid..I mean these brake fluids that are not the old original type..so yeah, "advanced" brake fluid might be a better solvent for lining bonding, and that would explain this kind of trouble being very common to-day...as I can see around me .

I unfortunately, do not have an oxy-acetalene torch, and the holes for the "included" jack screws were so rusty that I blistered my hands trying to use that method. One could probably use hex heads and really torque on 'em, but I didn't want to risk breaking something off in the drum. Anyway, it was just a thought, whetever. I'll file it away in the "useless stuff" file. And as far as skidplates go, Hydra, I finally figured out how to measure the @#$%#$* fuel tank accurately. And I mean, .001 inch accurately. so now that the Kia is actually back together, along with my lawn mower, and my waist-high grass is bailed... er... cut, I can proceed with skidplates. I ai'nt gave up yet. I just keep gettin held up doin other things. (why did I let my wife convince me to have more kids again...?) Oh well. Onward and upward.

Weeellll... Just did mine today. Luckily with enough pen penatrating oil, and some prybars, came right apart. But, i was wondering, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> what are those perfectly useless pan head screws fore. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />