Well I got stranded sunday and had to be towed home. My buddy listened by the tank as my Raider would run for about 1 minute and die, he could hear the fuel pump run then quit. So after replacing that, it runs like a champ now, what I thought was running bad when cold was always the fuel pump going out. It still idles high when cold but runs awesome, has tons of power. I can live with the high idle, it still takes about 6 minutes to warm up then the idle is normal. Hope this helps someone.
btw I couldn't find my old thread to put this update on it.

Plus I re-painted the top around the windows, and painted the rocker black and put on new tires and wheels.

I like the paint on it!!! looks great.

the cold idle is adjustable on the water choke housing of the throttlebody 1 screw and a allen wrench

That sounds interesting, could you supply a picture or better directions please

Leave the idle valve alone..... it's preset at the factory for proper idle air once the engine is warm. Since you said that your engine idles correctly when warm, adjusting the valve will only make things worse. You need to find out the cause of the cold idle being too high (if it is).

Check the IAC stepper motor coils, the engine coolant temperature sender and the MAF sensor. Clean the stepper motor and throttle body. Check the vacuum lines and the thermo vacuum switch. Check/replace the thermostat.

Frank

Thanks for the input, I have changed the thermostat, cleaned and checked the resistance on the IAC, cleaned the MAF sensor, checked vacuum lines, and the temp sender. What is the thermo vacuum switch?

It's at the front of the thermostat area, with 2 vacuum lines running to it.... controls EGR air supply. The switch can lose value and/or the plastic nipples can crack and leak.

It should not hold a vacuum below 50?F and should hold vacuum above 65?F.

If you have the FSM, run all of the tests shown wrt MPI and Emissions Control - EGR, TPS, MAF etc. Be sure to test the ECT sensor.

Frank