I know, I know. I was warned. I knew about the possibility of it failing. It's just that......



Sh!t, nevermind <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> My dumb<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> knew it was going to happen sooner or later.

I'm usually off Mondays. So, figured it'd be fun to take the wife and kids up past Clayton to hike up Rabun Bald. Normally a fun little day trip with very mild wheeling. Got about halfway there. Heard what I thought was rock. Dash warning lights come on. I shut it down immediately and coast off into a parking lot. Knew right away what it was. Well, it couldn't have been better timing or a better place to happen. Had perfect cell service (usually very spotty in that area), parked it in an open area with a big oak for the fam to sit under. And, to boot, it wasn't even 90*, even though it was supposed to be 98*. Oh, and the tow truck was right up the street. Took em 15 minutes to get there. An hour and $150 after "The Big Bang" and we were back at the NAPA store where I could better survey the damage. And plan my attack.

Thanks to Eddy and Frank for taking my calls <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> And for the plenty ideas on fixing it.

It's broken off about 3/8" into the crank snout. The balancer appears to be in usable condition, we'll see. Crank snout is still cherry, yay. The remainder of the bolt and the washer are long gone. Got a neato looking bolt extractor at Home Depot. Couldn't find any reverse drill bits. That would've been the preferred method. In talking with Frank, we came to the hypothesis that the bolt should not be under load. So, if I can get it to turn at all, it should come out straighaway. Unless, I used some Loctite. Can't remember. Thought at first I did, now I'm not so sure.

If you've read this far, thanks for listening. And wish me luck.

Larry

Good luck, Larry - thankfully I've never experienced that particular piece of nastiness.

Just take your time and don't get frustrated - it should come out easily once you find out what it wants you to do. The more I think about using some JB Weld to cement a smaller bolt to the remainder, the more I like the idea..... but the trick might be in holding the smaller bolt in place long enough for the stuff to set - and in keeping the glue away from the crank threads.

I hope you didn't use LocTite - that's a different colored horse entirely.

Frank

My brilliant <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />idea was to take a steel tube just smaller than the bolt and run the welding electrode up inside the tube and tack it to the bolt stub. If Larry has to try it, I'll be real interested in how it works out...

Hi Larry,
Kind of sucs but you got back to town pretty well.
The small tube that Eddy mention is usable but my first attempt would be to use it as a drill guide. Sure can save it from becoming a real PIA by keeping the hole centered.

I like the tube idea, but I think I'd try to get a nylon sleeve from Home Depot or Lowes - with an O.D. that just fits inside the crank snout, push it into the crank to butt against the bolt - then get a smaller bolt that just slides inside the I.D. of the nylon tube - apply JB Weld to the end of the small bolt and slide it up to the crank bolt. That way it'll stay aligned until the JB Weld sets up..... then (hopefully) back it out carefully with a socket held in your hand.

Frank

How about a combo. Use the tube for a drill guide, then degrease the snot out of the hole and bolt stub, then use the same drill bit (or a rod/bolt of the same diameter) JBwelded into place. Mucho more epoxy contact area...

Was in the general area and went by to check on him. Off to the boonies of Washington, GA to find a LH drill bit...

Larry, if that fails, try Handy Ace Hdw in Tucker, GA. I know they have LH taps and threaded fasteners. If they don't have it, they can get it in a couple of days. US78W past Stone Mtn Park to Hugh Howell Rd (SR236), exit and follow Hugh Howell several miles. Cross Mtn Industrial. Go several more blocks and Handy is in a strip center on the L before you get to Chick Filet and US29 intersection, on corner of Hugh Howell and Cowan.

I've been here before..
Most likely you will have to drill. I Dont think the JB will have enough strength in shear to get it out.

If you have to drill use a high quality right angle drill with a very small bit. Drill one small hole as dead center as possible. Then drill 4 small holes around the center hole being carefull not to get the threads of the crankshaft. You should have a pattern that looks like the number five on a pair of dice only closer together. Now go back and re-drill the center hole a couple more times in larger increments(sp?). once the center hole is large enough, use an EZ out to extract the bolt. Dont force the E-Z out, drill bigger if needed. The goal is to remove as much of the bolt material as possible without destroying the threads of the crank. Its a delicate method but it works. If you can get the center hole large enough without destroying the threads you can run a tap through to clean out the rest of the bolt material.

There's more way's to skin a cat but thats how I got mine out 5 or so years ago on my SR and its been good to go ever since.

use high quality bits being carefull not to break them off.

Victory was mine this morning. L/H drill bits did it for me. Started with the smallest to get the hole centered. Stepped up one size, and voila, it backed right out. Man, this is a load off my back. Thanks again to Frank and Eddy for talking me thru it. And to all those that responded with ideas.

Now that I have everything off the front, I think I'll replace the serp belt pulleys, boil out the radiator and install the electric fan I got for it. Heck, I may even rewire the electrical grounds and starter leads with that 2/0 wire I got laying around.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Happy to hear it worked.

Frank