96 T100 4x4, 165k miles. I've had the vehicle since 70k, and have never had brake work done.

Recommendations on rotors/pads/drums/shoes? I searched some, and found brembos are recommended ($55 ea. at tirerack). What about pads/drums/shoes?

Also, is bleeding lines necessary? Any wisdom to share on my upcoming quest?

I prefer the idea of going with new rotors, rather than removing material from already warped ones. I also like the adage of putting something back on that's better than what I took off.
I went with PowerStop cryo-slotted & EBC GreenStuff pads - working great for me... A LOT better bite than stock & zero fade.

Rotors...
p/n - JBR740LCPR
JBR740RCPR
Pads...
p/n - DP7992

Fwiw, part #'s can be interesting as not everything was offered for the T. To make it easier though, your pads match with FJ80's ('91-'97 LC & Lexus LX450) & '92-'96 4Runners.

Take a look at your master cylinder reservoir - if you see dirt, it's not clear. If it's not clear, you should flush your brake fluid.
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I'm finding I probably don't need to mess w/ my rears..agree?

I'll probably be buying stuff from local o'reilly/autozone/napa; not sure what brands they carry yet...

It's always important to check out yer entire brake system if yer gonna do some part of it. At least clean and inspect the rears. Pull, inspect, relube/reassemble.

Suck the old stuff out of the master cylinder and put new stuff in. Stay away from the DOT 5 stuff. Bleed out everything...including the proportional valve. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Yes, bleeding the lines is mandatory and so is flushing out all of your old black brake fluid.

You can get Brembos cheaper, shop around, some sites have free shipping, tire rack did not last time I checked. Really like the Hawk pads with mine.

We can give you lots of advice, but, first tell us whether you are trying to take your time and rebuild to new condition, or, are you trying to fast/cheap in your driveway?

No way to tell without looking.



You go buy a cheap set of pads and you're going to be mighty disapointed.

Thanks for the responses! I'll try to answer the questions:

I'll probably go ahead and do the rears while I'm at it (new rotors/shoes). That's what I was originally planning, but through reading, thought it might be something I could get away with.

I intend on bleeding everything out. I hopefully won't have to readjust the proportioning valve.

I'm trying to do fast, and reasonably priced...not looking for race car parts, but def. want to do stuff that's going to last. I don't mind spending more money if it's worth it, but hoping to be able to get the stuff purchased/installed in next couple of nights.

thanks again!

OK. The truck will last another 10 years, at least. If you are going to keep it that long you might want to hit some things and inspect others while you have these taken apart.

Wheel bearings: wash, inspect and replace if necessary, repack, reseal. You have to take them apart anyway to get the rotors.

Front axle boots: inspect them, time to do this if necessary

Front end: Ball joints, do you hear them clacking when you go over bumps?

Calipers: At this age it is silly not to rebuild them. Seal kit, and pistons if necessary, are best/cheapest at dealer.

My parts strategy is DEALER ONLY unless there are quality alternatives, like the Brembo rotors and Hawk pads, or Timken bearings. Parts store parts are usually more expensive, and lower quality.

I did most of the above over about a two week period and I had to wait for some parts. Sometimes you screw up or find something you overlooked.

Rear brakes are easiest. One shoe kit from the dealer, new drum gaskets and you should be rolling. A shop will mike the drums out for you to make sure they are not too big and that they are still round.

Brembo rotors and hawk pads on mine. We cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings with no issues at all.

I am very happy with the parts, truck stops well.

Definitely flush the brake fluid. You should do it about every 2 years regardless of mileage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, moisture causes rust, rust pits cause leaks in pistons and brake cylinder bores, which costs you more money later (brake fluid is cheap).

I'm on my stock brake shoes after 250k. I bought some a while ago assuming I'd need new ones, but when I looked at them they are going to be fine for a while longer. Check them, but you probably don't need them yet.

Stay with stock pads (they are not expensive) if you are fine with the stock brakes, try some of the others mentioned if you want more power.

Brembo rotors are at least as good as stock, and cheaper. If they aren't grooved and don't pulsate, then I wouldn't bother turning or replacing them though.

And if you're turning or replacing rotors, repack the wheel bearings as was suggested.