Per the FSM, 20-400 ohms fully closed and moving the plate from fully closed to fully open the resistance should be in the range of 20-1000 ohms. The note says resistance will change in accordance with the measuring plate opening. My assumption is that the resistance should start at some lower value (in the range of 20-400 ohms) and then increase as the plate opens.

Yes, Roger is spot on! The FSM sez,

HINT: Resistance between terminals E2 and Vs will change in a wave pattern as the measuring plate slowly opens.

If it's spiking, during the sweep, I'd be suspect. It's times like these, that spares are useful.

I re-tested the A.F.M. and it tested good. The resistance changed in waves, which is what threw me off at first, but was well within specs. I then tested the throttle position sensor, and that tested bad. I replaced the T.P.S. and started it up. It ran perfect for about a minute, then it went back to idling and running like crap. I re-tested the new sensor and it was bad so now I guess I have narrowed it down to a short in the wiring somewhere. So the hunt begins!

Well I found out i didnt test the T.P.S. correctly. I went through and tested averything again. The E.C.M. the A.F.M. the T.P.S. the coolant temp sensor, I removed the E.G.R. cleaned it out, and made sure it was working properly. I checked, and re-checked all of the vacuume lines, and made sure they were all in the correct places. I checked my oxygen sensor. Everything checked out to be within the F.S.M.'s specs. It idles fine for about a minute when it is cold, then the idle falls off and then goes to just barely running by the time it is fully warm. If I try to drive it at all while it is within that one minute window of smooth idling, it boggs down, and has absolutely no power. Is there anything I am missing that I should be checking?

Check the coolant temp senders for the ECU and the cold start injector. Since you say it is related to engine temperature, look at all the things that are temperature sensitive.

Also, just talked to a guy with a somewhat similar problem, in his case the engine would bog down after it warmed up and he drove a little. Tried all sorts of troubleshooting, then they pulled the fuel pump out and found the inlet screen was all plugged with rust.

how many temp sensors are there for the E.C.U.? I tested the green one, but there was a black one right beside it, I was guessing that one went to the E.C.U. as well since it had two wires, but I dont know what that one is called, or what the test paramaters would be for it. That clogged fuel pump screen makes sense too. Are there any other coolant temp sensors other than the green and black ones on the front of the intake? And are the tests the same for the black one?

I think those are it, one is the ECU temp sender the other is the cold start injector time switch as I recall. FSM has testing procedures for both.

Der I knew that. I had already checked out the cold start timer switch and it checked out to be within specs. I think I am down to a non sensor/electric problem. I need to check the fuel pressure before and after the regulator, check the pressure regulator, and the vsv? I guess. What exactly is the vsv? I am pretty sure it has to do with the pressure regulator but would like to know if anyone knows what vsv stands for.

Haha I need to stop asking questions before searching in THIS forum. V.S.V. = vacuum switching valve.

You can basically eliminate the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator to simplify the system:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/22RE_Engine_Pix/8.html