Thanks for the two suggestions guys. Here is more info & new info.

Hubby started the engine..no problem...however, I saw some black liquids spit out the tail-pipe along with that gasy, oily smell. While idling, bluish, gray smoke was coming out of the tail-pipe (alot more than suppose is usual). Drove about 1/8 mi and then ALOT of grayish, white smoke was trailing the car.

THEN...hubby pulled the oil dip-stick to check the oil and the color of the oil was a milky brown. This is DEFINATELY not the color of oil.

We got the car home (White grayish smoke shows up again just as we pull into the garage). Hubby swipes finger by tail-pipe and it comes up watery black. His comment ( I think somehow water has gotten into the engine).

Any possible explaination for the weird color oil and smoke, smell and tail-pipe swipe? Could any of this be related to the PVC repair (again, I have no idea what that entails). I just know that bluish smoke and disapperaing oil were the reasons fora new PVC Valve and ow these new symptoms involve weird looking oil, smoke, etc. I ask this specifically so I know if this is a new problem, or just that they didn't repair it right.

Sorry for being a pain. Help is greatly appreciated.

You have a blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked block - most likely the head gasket.... not related to PCV replacement.

Frank

on the bright side a new long block only costs around 1700...

Don't let it sit. The water/antifreeze in the oil will make an acid that attacks the main and rod bearing metal.

The "smoke" was mostly water vapor, plus fuel fumes from the wet cylinder that wasn't firing. The hotter the exhaust got, the more steam.

PCV valve replacement takes 5min, and should have cost about 20bucks in labor plus a 15dollar part.

Unless you have have several overheating events, I doubt the head is cracked. New heads are under $300.

Thanks Fast Eddy!

The Mechanic came and took my car. He checked the radiator and said there was no water in it but there was water in the oil. It's on it's way to be taken apart and checked out. He said he will do other tests too to make sure it isn't something else. But he is leaning toward a blown head gasket as well, given the symptoms.

Question(s):
1). If there was no water in the radiator, then how could there be any water getting into the oil?
2). If there was no water in the radiator, then why did the temp. gauge act normally?
3). There is a plastic container to the right of the radiator with hoses coming out of it, and it is full with golden liquid. I assume this is coolant. Doesn't this cool the radiator?
4). When I started the engine (it was cold...i.e. I live in the tropics and by cold, I mean it was the first time I had started it after sitting over night)...there was a very loud BANG. So what was that and what sort of damage could that bang have caused (blown gasket, cracked my block?)

P.S. Just to know, I've never had a problem with it overheating before, so this is all new to me.

1). If there was no water in the radiator, then how could there be any water getting into the oil? [color:"red"] all the water got sucked past (or pushed past after you shut it down from a hot run) the blown gasket into the combustion chamber, then leaked past the ring gaps into the crankcase into the oil[/color]
2). If there was no water in the radiator, then why did the temp. gauge act normally? [color:"red"]if the water level in the cooling system falls below the sensor, the sensor doesn't show as hot as the water really is, because the sensor doesn't react well to only steam, and only shows really hot after the metal of the head and intake get really high, OR the gauge is wrong. I have a simple test if you want it [/color]
3). There is a plastic container to the right of the radiator with hoses coming out of it, and it is full with golden liquid. I assume this is coolant. Doesn't this cool the radiator? [color:"red"] Kinda. the cooling system is "sealed" up to the radiator cap pressure rating, usually 13-15psi. The coolant in the system expands when it gets hot, and shrinks when it gets cool. When you stop after a normal temp run, or as the coolant warms up, if the system is full, it will force coolant past the cap pressure and into the reservoir you describe, instead of dumping it on the ground. As the system cools and the coolant shrinks again, water is sucked back into the system from the reservoir. This is called "coolant recovery". If the cooking system leaks (bad hose, bad head gasket, cracked head), there's no suction to pull the water lost to the leaks back into the system, so the reservoir can't be tapped. [/color]
4). When I started the engine (it was cold...i.e. I live in the tropics and by cold, I mean it was the first time I had started it after sitting over night)...there was a very loud BANG. So what was that and what sort of damage could that bang have caused (blown gasket, cracked my block?) [color:"red"] The cylinder(s) into which the head gasket was leaking won't usually fire because the plugs are wet. The fuel/air for those goes into the exhaust manifold, where the exhaust fire from the good cylinders sets it off, thus a loud bang.

I would expect it to turn over like "rowr - thump - rowr - thump" with a bad head gasket and lots of water in the radiator, and "rowr-whoosh-rowr-whoosh" empty of water, if the blow is severe. Whooshes are most noticeable if the oil cap or radiator cap is off.[/color]