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Alternator question- #898650 08/03/08 05:13 AM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,393
ForcedAir_Montero Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Hey gang-
I've been driving the monty alot more lately, as most things in my life go bad, including my POS DD-
Anyway, took my boys out to the lake last weekend and used the monty to tow my little boat. Everything went really well, until pulling into the carport upon return. I heard this horrible knocking sound, and shut down. Seconds later, I get puffs of smoke coming from under the hood. I pop the hood and the smoke is coming from the vicinity of the turbo. Since we're home, and there's nothing I can do when it's this hot, I just leave it.
Well, I got a chance to look it over. The turbo seems fine, and spins freely, IC pipes are clean, exhaust pipe is clean. I start it up and everything seems fine, except for the knocking. I check the exhaust for coolant smell, and got nothing. As I watch the engine bay while it's running, I find the knock- The belt running the alternator and waterpump is flapping around a bit. I shut'r down and even though the belt seems tight enough, I get the sense something's wrong. It took awhile, but I finally found a section of belt that was missing everything but the cording. You know, the "V" part on the inside of the belt is gone.
Anyway... I know, long story, but when I loosened the alt to get the belt off, the bolt sheared off in the tapped hole int the alt. Not the tension adjust bolt, but the one which secures it once you tension it. I've always considered myself pretty good at removing stuck and broken fasteners, but even though I can get to both sides of this hole, I can't get it out.
Any thoughts on how it would be to drill it all the way and use a through bolt? I know it would require two wrenches, but anybody had to do this?

BTW- I'm pretty sure that the smoke was "residual" burnoff of maybe old oil and sludge and gunk on the outside. Maybe even the powdercoating that is on the pieces of aluminum that I built my heat shield out of. The drive home is about fourty miles and towing the boat, I was under load most of the way, boosting about 3-7 psi. I know the turbo will get pretty hot under those conditions.
I consider myself pretty lucky that the belt was still turning those last few miles home. I could easily see a bad overheat and blown motor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />


-Dave D
Reservoir of Useless Knowledge

"But... If I kill all the golfers, they'll lock me up, and throw away the key..."
-Bill Murray

'84&change Monty MPI Turbo, choptop, f&r lsd, swapped in AT- All the goodies!
Re: Alternator question- [Re: ForcedAir_Montero] #898651 08/03/08 03:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 13,649
fasteddy Offline
Web Wheeler
*****
You had me goin' for a minute there. I haven't had air for so long on my 2.6T that I forgot how the tensioner was set up.

Why not drill it out and tap for the next larger bolt? And use anti-seize this time...

Was the smoke still puffing, or a steady stream with the hood open and engine running? Continuing puffs might be the oil feed hose or coolant hoses leaking...


Not responsible for advice not taken...
Re: Alternator question- [Re: fasteddy] #898652 08/03/08 04:24 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,393
ForcedAir_Montero Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Thanks Eddy,
My selection of taps is pretty minimal. I know they don't cost much, but I'm going to have trouble buying the belt, I don't want to spend anymore if I don't have to. I came up with a better ez out, so I'm headed outside to try again now.
I tried to find somebody with some better tools, but all I can come with is BIG tractor and semi truck tools.

As for the smoke, I didn't notice until I had shut the motor off. It was a steady wisp. All the hoses and lines seem good and don't appear to be leaking. I was mostly worried that the oil feed line was plugged, but it seems to be fine.


-Dave D
Reservoir of Useless Knowledge

"But... If I kill all the golfers, they'll lock me up, and throw away the key..."
-Bill Murray

'84&change Monty MPI Turbo, choptop, f&r lsd, swapped in AT- All the goodies!
Re: Alternator question- [Re: ForcedAir_Montero] #898653 08/03/08 04:37 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
I'm not familiar with how the 2.6L alternator mounts, but could you drill it and use a bolt and nut to hold it?

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum
Re: Alternator question- [Re: ForcedAir_Montero] #898654 08/03/08 04:50 PM
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
S
Spike Offline
Need a Spot
If that EZ out does not work, try a reverse drill bit. I had a timing chain tensor guide bolt broken in the block. Used a reverse thread bit and the bit spun it right out. Took about 30 seconds from start to finish!


Spike
87 2.6L 5spd Dodge Raider
Yota Shackles and Crank,Superwinch Hubs
On 33's Thornbird

Re: Alternator question- [Re: FrankR] #898655 08/03/08 04:55 PM
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,393
ForcedAir_Montero Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
I'm not familiar with how the 2.6L alternator mounts, but could you drill it and use a bolt and nut to hold it?

Frank


This is what I'm wondering. I can't see why it wouldn't be OK, just a bit more cumbersome to get adjusted and tightened, the whole two hands instead of one thing...


-Dave D
Reservoir of Useless Knowledge

"But... If I kill all the golfers, they'll lock me up, and throw away the key..."
-Bill Murray

'84&change Monty MPI Turbo, choptop, f&r lsd, swapped in AT- All the goodies!
Re: Alternator question- [Re: ForcedAir_Montero] #898656 08/03/08 06:01 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,238
FrankR Offline
Web Wheeler
****
I think that would get you by until you can find the correct tap. It would be better if you could get it out now, though.

One method is to drill the exact center with a very small bit and continue drilling with progressively larger bits until the balance of the bolt can be collapsed inwardly and pulled out.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum







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