all though .. I love the 22R , RE series engines there is NO horse power there .. I built many engines ,(including TED'S parts) and top H/P , costing about 4G'S + + was about 150 FWHP ~ 180 FWHP .. really NOT worth the expence .. to make it GO GO .. you need to do gears , and a wrath of other pieces ..

for minimal/comparable cost , you could stay with toyota , and do a 7M/7Mgte , or 3VZFE , or even a 5VZFE .. (which i'm doing in my Trekker) .. I will also be able to add the TRD supercharger , to a tune of 240 FWHP and with computer mods .. 300 .

I say SWAP .. unless your keeping it "stock" for resale ..

I put a 2.25" exhaust on my 22RE powered xtracab 4x4 this week (and some brake upgrades and some Bilstein shocks)and I was loving the extra 5 hp (and 23 mpg highway). I don't really need much more. Maybe a $1000 rebuild with a new head, all to EB specs. That might get me another 25 hp Woo Hoo! There's something about these Toyotas that make this alright for me. -- Matt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

bottom line is ..

It all depends on what you want , and how much coinage your willing to part with ?

Well, on my recently purchased '89 4runner I want a 5VZFE with a blower (and Total Chaos CaddyII IFS. -- Matt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

You mean rwhp, not fwhp, right? or u swap it into a honda <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

nope .. flywheel horse power .. less at the rear wheels ..

A guy over on the TrailGear forum is in the process of swapping the 3.5 liter GM I-5 Atlas motor that is used in the H3 Hummers and the Colorado pickups from 2003 and forward. It's all an aluminum DOHC inline 5 cylinder with great dimensions for the Toyota mini-truck engine bay. He's using a GM automatic with Advance Adapters parts to mate it to the Toyota transfer case. This motor puts out 240 hp & 240 tq in the 2005 and later version and 220 in the 2003 -'04. GM uses a 5spd Aisin transmission behind this motor that is the same transmission that Toyota is using in the latest Tacoma. There is speculation that a GM Atlas bellhousing might bolt up to the venerable Toyota R150F transmission making this a factory parts swap (no expensive adapters needed).

It's been said before that most Toyota mini truck V8 conversions end up in disappointment for those who find that replacing shredded transmissions and axles is not a great way to spend their time and money. At least the Jeep guys have this figured out. It seems that they go for the 3/4 - 1 ton transmissions (NV4500, ect) and axles (Dana 60/GM 14 bolt) pretty quickly.

I used to dream about building a T100 with a Chevy LS1 and an SAS with big American axles, but now with $4.00 gas I'm confining my big motor aspirations to a 3/4 or 1 ton towing rig. I'm thinking more about small diesels for my 4x4 trail rig. -- Matt

EB thanks again for the advice. I've been running 'round the last couple of days trying to find a machine shop I trust to machine my parts. I read what you said about port and polishing the head and was still wondering: Is back pressure a key ingredient in 'Yota performance? I've thought about going ahead and porting and polishing the exhaust side to let it breath a little easier with just a little work on the intake (just smooth up a few rough spots, not a full port on the intake.) I know what happens when intake porting get's out of control: high rpm engines are born and "bye-bye gas friendly daily driver." Would a good exhaust port cause any harm or do I need a certain amount of back pressure? I hate to keep aggravating but I've found that the answers from here are a lot better than the ones from the grinning, "built a hundred of them" teen-ager working down at the NAPA!

>>>*Remember the one rule of thumb is that most exhaust systems are adequate for the design. The only time real gains are made is when the system is overly restrictive, other than the obvious due to torque multiplication.

Now the typical 22R/RE is a bit on the restrictive side in stock form. The factory goal appeared to be to keep the engine nice and quiet, yet responsive at lower speeds.

So normally opening up the exhaust will improve the power numbers because the engine will peak at a higher RPM and typically rev to a higher RPM.

So the answer is yes, within limits. And yes, some back pressure is needed, this is because it takes time to get air/fuel moving and once we do we want it in the cylinder and not the exhaust system. So to make an engine create acceptable power at very low RPM's we restrict cross flow with back pressure, this keeps the goody, (the air and fuel) from reaching the exhaust port, giving that valve time to close and seal it off.

This keeps the fuel and air from going out the exhaust before it does any work. At higher speeds, we don't need as much if any back pressure, and there is a point in there where a vaccum is a benefit.

So any design is a compromise to get the best of both worlds. Now if you are tearing around out in the woods, or trying to get to the other end first, we don't really care about backpressure.

*Sitting at a stoplight with a load of Cows in the back? Then you do....*LOL**..or climbing up over some rocks at low RPM where instant throttle response at very low RPM's can mean you don't dent the roof? You bet backpressure matters then.

Mild work to smooth up the exhaust ports really doesn't hurt anything at all. Working on the intake side can add actual power through better cylinder fill. Of course again there are limits, run a port that might work on a big bore Chevy with the much smaller 22RE cylinder and at low speeds all you will get is flames, the velocity drops, fuel falls out of suspension.

Manifold standoff, that is called. It creates nice burnt spots on the hood..

When that happens, the air runs into the cylinder nicely, the fuel just sits there. The fast flamefront escapes out the open intake valve before it can close and seal off the works.

It's all a balance, porting on the 22RE head is touchy so be careful and don't remove very much...*EB

EB, I ought to pay you for all the explaining you've done and time you've taken. I've ported heads and wound up having the fuel "fall out" of the mixture. What's the old saying? "That which does not flood will back-fire through the carb?" *LOL* I think I've got a good plan of action now. If I can ever figure how to post my pics, I'll take everyone along as I go through the rebuild. Thanks again.