Hey all....Came back here after long hiatus, originally posted under the name 'zephyr'. I have an '85 4runner 22re, auto that has been rebuilt and modified. And has been a 'project' (read: problem child) ever since. see here:

1st post

2nd post

3rd post

So....after following all advice on the 3rd post I linked to, (keep in mind this is 3 years ago, so my memory is alittle fuzzy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />) it somehow came down to taking off the upper intake plenum to replace all the grommets/bushings for the injectors, and to test them to make sure they have good resistance. The #4 injector was dumping fuel excessively and all the pressure was bleeding out through that port. Did that, but now it won't start at all, fuel jumper or not, starting fluid or not. It just turns and turns, but no starting. It does backfire. Have spark, good compression, fuel to the rail, new plugs, manipulated the dist. body to adjust timing to see if that would work..nothing. I did singe the s#!t out of my arm hairs with the starting fluid and a backfire though..good times, good times.

Any ideas?

I love this truck, but Im close to renting my house out and need it to either start so I can drive it, or offload it craigslist style.

Matty

I read the previous posts. Did you remove and/or test the Circuit Open Relay? What were the results? Have you tested the AFM per the Service Manual? If you are getting fuel and air, (with no serious air leaks), then how about spark? Tested the Ignitor? Coil Wire? What about the fuses and fusible links?

Timing???

Coulda skipped a tooth or 2.

Double checked?

Since you aren't sure if the AFM is at stock settings, and since ut has been exposed to moisture, I would replace it w/a stock one. Once it is running correctly then you could advance the AFM(after marking the stock setting), to increase performance.

If the items above check out o.k., and its still wont run w/a new AFM, it sounds like it could be a timing issue, and could have been there from the get go. I would recheck the t-chain marks in relation to the cam gear, set the dist. all the way too one side and rotate it until it starts as someone turns the key. If it doesn't start, pull the dist. and rotate it one tooth, and start the process again. Once it is running check it with a timing light and set it to stock settings(or whatever the settings are for the new cam).

Another problem could be the cam itself, the shop that did the grind may have screwed it up, seeing how the engine never performed properly from the start. If everything else checks out(i.e, vacuum, AFM, timing/t-chain, etc.), I would replace the cam w/stock one, and see if that helps, you should be able to pluck one from a P-n-P pretty cheap.

pull cap of dist and make sure it is turning.
check timing mark with the rotor pointed at number one plug on dist.
make sure your afm is plugged in and getting signal. with out a signal for air flow it will shut off the fuel pump.

check the y connection on the injector feeds. these are known to go bad.
get a test light and make sure your injectors are firing.

also check your efi fuse, it is a little one middle top of the fuse block.
if you replace the cam get the DOA rv cam, it is pretty good.
check your timing chain guides, if they are badly broken it can jump links.

the last and hardest thing that I have ever tracked down was a bad ignition switch, on, lights, turns over and no start.

Had the same problem a few years back when i replaced my timing chain cover. Screwed around with it for hours with no luck... Talked to a friend and he told me my distributor was 180 degrees out. I was puzzled as the distributor was pointing in the right direction went back home pulled distributor and rotated 180 and it fired right up...

hey guys, sorry for the late reply. family emergency, had to fly to d.c. :0

Any ways, to answer some questions:

AFM has been replaced with a stock one, while it was running. It ran with the *new* one so its good to go.

Spark is good, from the ignitor/coil pack to the plugs.

Have tried rotating the dist throughout its range while turning over, nothing.

BUT I haven't checked to see if its set correctly. I will do that, and try to see if its 180 out. Would it of run at all 180 out previously?

As far as the open circuit relay, I honestly dont remember, so I will go back and bone up on it, and then come back and let you guys know one way or another.

For the cam, it is something I have been told to replace for quite a while now, but it is low on the to-do list with the truck, because I am thinking the cam wouldn't cause it to NOT start after it had been running with the cam in it to begin with. But it is crappy, and I learned a valuable lesson with both the cam and the header I bought...you get what you pay for when you go aftermarket!

stay tuned, I'll let you all know any news.

Holy crap! rotated my dist. 180 and it fires! Oh man..I haven't heard this thing fire up in FOREVER. What a great sound...for 1-2 seconds. And then it shuts off.

Every time. Without fail. If I try to start it right back up, it has a hard time firing, but if I let it sit for a minute (maybe 30 sec.) it fires right up again, but only for those few seconds. When it runs, it idles at 13-1400 rpm, and is unresponsive to throttle movement.

With the fuel jumper in, it just idles higher, but still dies. Also, my timing light is loaned out, so I am just doing it by process of elimination for now.

Also, tried pulling some ohm-age from the coil, and it 'looks' lower than what is asked (i.e. pulling .3 ish VS .5-.7) but Im not very educated with the ohm reader..its fancy as hell-i could be on the wrong setting or current type. And, could it be lower than normal due to its inactivity for the past few years? Could it charge back up to normal operating range? Also....its an Accel SuperStack. That shouldn't affect anything, right?

Still need to read up on the Open Circuit Relay. Its been a hectic life the past few weeks.

It could be the coil itself. coming from personal experience, i've personally seen two accel superstock coil's go bad within two weeks of installing them on vehicles. one, was on my truck, which lasted all of six days, and another, on a customer truck at the dealership. hi's lasted for two weeks after putting it on his truck. i tried to get my money back from both accel and the local checker, but checker laughed me out of the store and accel ignored me until i gave up ten months later. i'd personally put the stock coil back on.