can anyone tell me the year range on the MAF sensor i need? or point me in the right direction to where i can find that out.

if your maf was bad, you should be getting a code. i got a code on mine. but, if the maf has been unplugged you will need to disconnect your battery to reset the ecu. mine had been disconnected, got code, was told needed new maf, disconnected power, reset ecu, swapped in spare maf, no problem, but repeated the process with the origianl maf (just to be sure) that turned out to be good as well.
btw, i think that all gen I mafs work. i got zero codes on both a 89 and a 90 maf sensor.

I'm lost on this one, Whats the MaF and wheres it located ? I'll check to see if mine's unplugged.

thanks

Mass Air Flow Sensor. It's the plug on your airbox at the end of the air intake hose.

Dang, I was hoping that meant something else, I"d already checked that plug.

Maybe I need to go back and disconnect the battery again , I'm not sure if I checked the Maf before or after I had done that the first time.

I don't won't to hijack this in anyway, But could I have a bad body Ground that could be causing the hesitation ? When I sit in the car and don't turn the key on, But press the brake pedal , the Dash lights come on. With the key in the on position , I press the brake pedal and the dash lights come on and the front blinker lights also like their connected to the brake wiring.

thanks

first, leave your power dissconnected for 20 minutes... give it 30 to be sure to reset your ecu. does not sound like a ground issue in the conventional sense, except for the funky light thing. youve definitly got some electrical issues somewhere how ever. ive had some "difficulty" with the headlight circuit (which the dash lights are part of). ive gotten a MAJOR hesitation from the headlight circuit not working correctly. i dont know if your two problems are linked, but if you want to find out disconnets your power for 30, pull your fuse (middle fuse comingn off the battery, should be a green 30a) and see what happens. why your dash lights come on when you hit the breaks... im thinking youve got something shorting out.
funny thing about these montys that ive never encountered before on any other rig... it will give you hints through the electrical system, you just have got to chase the circuit and eliminate all potential problems.
btw... check your iac, tps, dizzy, alternator and i dont think it would hurt to chase all the accessable wiring connection in you headlight circuit.
ps trying to keep my game face on, but im watching the vp debate.

ok guys i think i have found it at least on my truck anyway. i was running it sitting in a dark area with the hood up and my alternator is really loud so it is hard to hear. well i would rev it slow and it would rev just fine then i would floor it and it would sputter, and when it was about to die i could hear a clicking that i just thought was the injectors. well first i jiggled the wires going into the little ignition module and the truck would run better then sputter again. ah i says i have found it. so i take the wire connector of and it is corroded in there to i take a sharp pic and scrape the crud out of the connector sockets and off the pins. i had taken the module off to do this and cleaned the bottom of the module and the mount. put it back together and same problem but it seems to idle a bit better. because the lighting was bad i was able to see a hair line crack in the coil post where the coil wire hooks in that goes to the distributor. i think it is a seam but the thing was arcing inside the crack to the heat sink that is the mount for the coil. the only thing that i can think of is that when you mash the gas the electronics ramp the voltage in the coil. thats why if i just barely gave it throttle it would rev just fine because the out going current wasnt strong enough to jump to ground but under WOT it was at max and jumping shorting the system to ground. ok what i have done was to scrape out the crack and fill the whole gap with JB weld. i will see if this works if not i will search for another coil and possibly one that isn't designed like this one. money is tight and wife is going out of town but at least i think i might have it now. I'll post up after the reinstall and tell you how it worked.

Yep the JB quick did the trick. i really think it is a design flaw to have a grounding source so close to the high voltage output on the coil but whatever i'm happy as a clam that i found it finally. by the way the boot on the wire covered the arc so it was almost inpossible to see so pull the boot back and rev it slow to 1/4 throttle and if it's like mine it won't arc across then floor it and watch the pretty blue white arc go crazy across there. and a coil can short internally also so even if you don't see the arc it doesn't mean the coil isn't arcing inside. Thanks to everyone for their help and input on this thread and my own thread.

Interesting. Sounds similar to a problem I had with mine a few years ago where the rotor had cracked and it was shorting to ground through the rotor. I didn't mention it because

A) I always bring that up in the "my truck keeps trying to stall" threads and everyone always says "nope, brand new rotor" and

B) You said you had replaced the rotor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Guess maybe I need to generalize my suggestion to "arcing" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Glad you found it, and thanks for letting everyone know what it turned out to be <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Eric W.