Very good lookin' rig Stace. And it sounds like you've got it setup right. What's the black around the wheel openings? Is just paint with trimmed back sheet metal? And where can I learn more about the type of crossover steering you are running? -- Matt

They are integrated with the mounts already, utilizing a spring pin style bolt snug in the spring.

Good question. I used to have Bushwacker cutout flares on the truck. After a few years of scraping rock and granite, they weren't looking very good. Then, I ripped and mangled the front right one off, taking a crazy line on the Upper Woodpecker trail in Florence Jct. Az. I could have made it, I was testing my new Marlin 4.7 gears, but the entire right side of the rig would have been destroyed. Instead of buying new flares (the most expensive part of the rig at the time, and you gotta buy BOTH fronts) I removed them. Then, I had a bunch of screw holes all around the fenderwells left over, so I bondo'd those in. Doing that left it looking crappy, so I taped off the fenders over the bondo'd areas, and sprayed the cheap bedliner in a can, mainly to cover the mess left from the flare to begin with. Turns out that I like it.





Crossover, is different than HighSteer. Crossover still uses an IFS steering box, but a "Y" arm on the passenger side. PRO - the tie rod sits below the springs. I can move my front axle WAY forward, as compared to high steer, that can cause the tie rod and drag link to smack each other at compression. CON - the tie rod sits below the springs <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> There is a chance that you'll smack the tie rod on a rock or something and bend it. However, I purchased a Marlin tie rod (huge!), with FJ80 ends, and still straight as an arrow.

Glad to hear they are still working for you Brent! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Regarding the Y arm that Stace is using.... the first 4 pics are of his arm....and the rest are of 2 others that I just made up for a buddy that's coming up this Saturday for his own ZUK cross-over
There used to be a place in Canada that made a Y-arm but I don't think they do anymore.






















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Forgot to mention that the pitman arm isn't as critical with crossover. I'm using stock. Much easier / quicker / cheaper to get from anywhere, as compared to a custom one. (Just in case....)

is this Y arm over and under the springs? I would like to see this set up mounted.
with info on the steering box and the cross over bar lenth.

also the angle or distance between the two tie rod ends..

Bar lengths are the regular HighSteer bars, both drag link and tie-rod. FJ80 rod ends, except the box. It uses Skys pitman adapter on the STOCK pitman. Box mounted forward, then tipped up just so the pitman clears the frame.



Yes, Drag bar above the springs, tie rod below. Works pretty good.

Aqualu Industries Inc. in Kelowna, British Columbia use to make a dropped forged arm like that. I was just on their page and did not see them offered anymore.

I used to make arms like that about 12 years ago same basic principle just made a bit different. I was going to use one on mine when I did the SAS 12 years ago but Marlin came out with a high steer so I went with it instead.

Anybody know if there is a minimum amount of spring lift you need to have to run this kind of "y" arm? I'd like to know more about mounting the IFS steering box for this setup too. -- Matt

None really, flat springs or arched really doesn't matter.


Pretty much the same as any hi-steer setup for mounting the box.