In response to a few queries regarding the transplant I did on my Gen1 LWB, I will give a short write-up here.

History:

I bought the Gen1 as a import from Japan. It was a 2.5Td Auto LWB Exceed.
I was never really happy with the 2.5 with auto tranny, mostly because the tranny overheated when worked a it hard.

I had a local workshop fit a Chevy 4.3 V6 with a Borg Warner T5 5-spd box and the standard Mitsu transfer case.
It was a great transplant, but the fuel consumption of the carb version of the 4.3 made me decide to go back to a diesel.

The choice was made to fit a Mitsu 3.2 Di-D engine, with a Mitsu V5M31 5-spd and transfer case.

The Di-D engine:

I bought the complete engine with transmission, transfer case and peripherals from a breaker.
The most important peripheral was the complete wiring loom with the ECU, transponder and key barrel.
The engine and peripherals came from a wreck which had less than 20000 kms on the odo.
I decided to go for the complete drive train in order to keep it as standard as possible. My experience is that transplants go wrong when different parts are made to match by means of adapters etc.
The peripherals included turbo, 125A alternator, starter, AC pump, vacuum pump, power steering pump, inter cooler, air filter housing, viscous coupling & fan & exhaust manifold.








Body preparation:

The Di-D engine and especially the transmission is larger than the 2.5 TD. Furthermore I always had 33" tyres in mind, so I lifted the body by 2" (50mm). I had the spacers made up from UHDPE.

New brackets were manufactured to raise both bumpers by 2" as well.

This made the fitting of the engine much easier.

Fitting the engine:

The engine fits neatly into the engine bay, without having to modify any sheet metal.
The radiator is also in its original position, albeit lowered by 2" to suit the body lift.

I stripped the engine bay as far as practical and sprayed it a satin black to hide all the blemishes an engine bay picks up over its life.

The old mounting pedestals were removed (chisel and FBH), new engine mountings were manufactured and welded to the chassis rail.
All this was accompanied by the normal numerous cycles of fitting and removal of the engine and transmission to make sure that nothing fouls and clearances are OK.

This was the first fitting of the engine in the engine bay:



More later ..

Gerhard, that is an awesome build. Love it. Every time I read something about the 4m41 I think of your awesome machine, and how much fun it must be to drive. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Can't wait for the next installment...

Excellent having the information needed to make this swap will have a few of us seaching for 3.2's. Keep it coming. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Fitting the transmission:

The advantage of the 2" body lift was that I could retain the cross member to mount the rear of the transmission.

I fitted the old mounting rubber on top of the cross member after manufacturing mini-brackets to tie the rubber mounting to the rubber mounting:



Position of the gear levers on the transmission hump:
The workshop that fitted the Borg Warner T5 really butchered the transmission hump. That was because the T5's lever sits way forward, relative to the Mitsu ones.
I cut all their mods away, ending up with a crater in the transmission hump (torsion bar visible through hole!):


I then shaped a 'cover' from 1.6mm aluminium sheet to cover the hole and provide correct placement of the rubber boots:


This is the final result, with the transmission shifters visible through the hole:


Here is the final result before fitting the carpets:


Dash board:
I completely removed the dash board.
Firstly it was to be re-sprayed, but it made the modifications to the wiring much easier:


Heater:
When fitting Chevy V6, the previous workshop found the space between the engine and the fire wall a bit small, so the solution with the heater pipes were easy:

After I had the pipes cut off and new ends soldered on:

Wiring:

As I said previously, I bought the complete loom with ECU, transponder and key barrel with the engine.

(At this stage I will just mention that we are three brothers and we were doing similar transplants on three Pajeros - 2 Gen1s and one Gen2 SWB).

We got hold of the factory wiring diagram (?800 pages in all!). Without this it would have taken more knowledge than what we had to get the wiring done. I have had it scanned, so .... ).

I have to give credit to my older brother, who took the sorting out of the electrics & electronics on his shoulders.

Many of the functions controlled by the ECU had to be disabled / removed eg Traction control. My bother split both looms (existing and new) and combined the two into a work of art! It does not look back-yard at all, but the same as all the work we did, as if it was done in the factory.

To me this is the most crucial part of the transplant (I suppose because I had very little part to play in it).

The pictures show the work in progress:

Great write up again. The wiring was somthing I was curious about. Your brother did an excelent job with the harness.Was there any issues with the location of the transfer case.

Not at all. The 2" lift provided enough clearance.
Apart fro the small cuts made for inter cooler pipes (to follow) and tidying up the mess made of the transmission hump, the whole build was done without any mods to sheet-metal.

The Inter Cooler:

I used the inter cooler from a Di-D:

It was fitted in this area, where there is good air flow and it is reasonably well protected behind the bash plate:

The pipes were made up using a combination of flexible and mild steel pipes.
The end result:

The Radiator:

The original Gen1 2.5Td's 3-core radiator was used, with the following changes:
1. I had it re-cored, more as a precaution than necessity.
2. The mounting brackets were raised 2" (thus radiator lowered by 2") to allow for the water outlet from the engine to line up with the top of the radiator.

The outlet on the engine was cut and re-welded after rotating it 45 deg to line up the top hose:

To date the radiator is working 100% and cools the engine with no problem.

Oil Cooler:

The 4m40 (2.8Td) and 4m41 (Di-D) engines have oil coolers built into the block:



I decided to retain the external oil cooler of the 2.5 Td. (I suppose one can never have to much cooling?) The pipes to the external cooler needed slight mods to the Di-D's oil pipes:


The Sump:
In order not to mount the engine to high in the engine bay, I modified the sump slightly to clear the front diff housing. A standard 'dome' plate was welded into the sump, which provided the required clearance:

The Clutch:

The original 2.5Td was coupled to a auto box, but I went for a 5spd on the Di-D. This necessitated a new pedal set.
This is where good design from Mitsu came in. I bought a pedal set from a Gen2 Pajero, refurbished it and it bolted straight into the body! All the fittings, bolts etc were there in a 1989 auto Gen1 to use a 1997 Gen2's pedal set!