Heres the problem....
It seems like my raider isnt really tapping into its full potential of its stopping power. Its got new calipers and rotors up front. and pad all the way around. We temp gunned the rotors and drums the drums were both close to each other butthe rotors had a bit over 100degree diffrence between the two. the driver side being the hottest. the mechanic said it could be a bad power break booster. i'm looking for anyone who might have had this problem and i'm looking for solutions and if i need to a replacment power brake booster.


Thanks guys for the help
Dean <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Bad booster? I'm no expert but think that would affect all brakes not just one side up front.

The rear brakes are adjusted properly? Your sig indicates oversize tires which shouldn't be a problem with the late 88/89 brake setup. How are you determining 'failure' mode? 60 to stop? 90 to stop? Are the rotors and pads seasoned or broken in?

Raider vs. Ferrari?

just standard city driving condition and the pull to the left. and as far as stopping goes its just one of the things you feel you know what i mean you can feel it kinda plowing through the breaks and not really biting right.
all pads have 1000 miles on them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

It could be you have one bad caliper even though they're new.

Probably unlikely but did you properly bleed the brakes after you installed the calipers?

everything is checking out alright. but if it stops raining tomorrow im ight just take another look at them and see if i cant find and issues. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

It's not going to be the booster. Most common symptom of that is a hard pedal from lack of assist. Sounds like a sticking caliper slide pin. When you bled the brakes after replacing the calipers, did you bleed them in sequence? Not sure what the FSM says, but typical is RR, LR, RF, then LF. Or, farthest from the master cylinder to closest, in that order. Did you lubricate the slide pins REALLY well prior to installation? Or did you do what most people do and just install them? Not saying you necessarily did anything wrong, but it could be the source of your issue.

My .02, take the calipers loose at the pins, lubricate til it's nasty and reassamble. Then bleed the brakes again, just to be safe. Also, did you replace or resurface the rotors? If so, did you get the torque right on the bearings? If one side is significantly tighter than the other, it could generate enough heat to make a 100* difference.

That oughta keep ya busy for a few minutes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

thank you for the advice and it does seem like i'll be alittle busy after all, it might not be to bad i had plans on putting a steering stabilizer on this weekend. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

Big +1 to Hazy. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

The hot side is binding or the cool side isn't grabbing.

My '89, 3.0, 5 speed has drums in the rear ( <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />) with a cross-over line. The only rear bleed point is on the passenger side. Then move to pass front, then driver front.

Had similar problem it was a bad/binding caliper. The symptom was on a hard stop the vehicle would pull to one side. Was not noticeable when stopping normally. The problem was the caliper on the side opposite of the direction of pull. Also the rotor on the bad side was noticeably cooler. I agree with the others, do not see how it could be power booster issue but I guess anything possible.
Guess you could swap front calipers,if possible and see if the problem moved to the other side. But that seems like overkill to diagnose the problem.
good luck....