Ah, the great lift discussion. We've not had one in a while.
The shortest answer is you are going to have to cut metal to get 35's to fit. You might get away with removing flaps and modifying the wheel well liners, but it will be super tight.
Other than that, lifting your Trooper is the same as any other IFS rig that does not have relocation kits for the front end (like Toyota does). You get to turn the torsion bars. This produces a few side effects, other than an increased ride height. The ride gets harsher, the alignment must be brought back into spec and you are limited by the droop snubbers.
You can swap the ball joints from the top of the upper a-arm to the underside. This gives you a *little* more room to work with. There are some spacers available from Matt at
www.independant4x.com to help with the alignment if you do flip the ball joints.
Additionally, you have to address the tie-rod issue. Mainly, they like to break. Matt also has some nice beefy upgrades. Darlington used to have shields that clamped over the tierods, but I do not think those are available anymore.
You are probably going to want to install manual hubs on the front end (if you don't have them already), as spinning the CVs at a steep angle all the time seems to shorten their serviceable life.
Then, we get to the back. The two options are longer coils or coil spacers. There are several threads about what people like.
In the end, you are limited to the ~4" range. You can go a little higher in the back, but the front is the limiting component.
You can also look at a body lift. Several people have done them on the 2nd gens. IIRC, they are pretty much a DYI thing. Spacers are available, but there are no real pre-fab kits.
Search the thread here. You'll find part numbers for the ARB coils or specs for custom coils. You'll also find out what others have done.
Good Luck,
Michael