I noticed recently that I'd been loosing brake fluid in the reservoir. After a brief look around the rig, I found a small puddle of brake fluid on the inside of my rear passenger wheel the other day.

I guess it's time to rebuild or replace the rear brake cylinders. I was going to rebuild them but a complete unit cost pretty much the same as a rebuild kit at Kragen Auto ($16.00 ea) so I guess I'll simply be replacing them.

Any insight on what tools will be needed? I did a search and hadn't found any write-ups on the process.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

All tools and how too can be found at the CrassCat's compound.
Bring you parts, Saturday and Sunday are open. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Dirty jokes and loose women in abundant supply there?

I've got 2 sets of mitsu cylinder rebuild kits and you can have 1 for the cost of shipping if you like...

just sayin'...

dT

I rebuilt my rear wheel cylinders last year.
What a PITA.

I made the special Mitsu Cone Tool to slide the o-ring onto the pistons, you Really need it ,too.

I cut a 3 in. tip off a plastic funnel to slide the rubber over , thereby streching it over the end of the piston. It's probably the only way to do it without damaging the rubber.
In retrospect(I did not know this at the time) I should has just gotten a Gen 2 rear with the easy to maintain disc brakes.
I inspected my shoes recently and since I couldn't strike an arc on the shoes only about 3 in. on top and bottom of shoe were even making contact with the drum. Drum brakes are soo dinosaur.

I replaced the wheel cylinders, shoes, and spring kit in 1.5 hours bouth sides last summer after I lost brake shoe linings on the left side.

The little C-clips that hold on the e-brake levers were darn little buggers to put on, practice made perfect...try to find shoes with these parts already installed.

Adjust the freeplay on the shoe adjusters correctly and your e-brake lever should stop after 5-7 clicks.

You'll need a 10mm line wrench to remove the cylinders and a bleeder kit. Floor jack and stands ona concrete floor simplify the project...unless you have a lift.

R-

I rebuilt mine on my genI and it sucked. SUCKED. So bad in fact, that I got a genII with rear discs, and never looked back. Don't rebuild them Ray, replace em. Esp if you can do it cheaply. Save your patience for something that you can't get a replacement part for. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

LOL, I gotcha guys...
Just to be clear, I will be REPLACING them versus rebuilding them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Best way to replace rear brake cylinders:

Before:




After:


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

S'ok... I won't take it personal... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Sheesh... makes a guy's goodwill seem, well... almost torturous... <ahem> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

I changed mine as well, with what seems to have been the easier, 95 SR rear end method... haha. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" />

Didn't know the peril I would have been wading into if I decided to rebuild those cylinders, so it's a good thing... but I meant well...

dT