Sorry, that was directed at Phil, not you since he was pretty adamant at how much a pain it was to r&r them. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Off-Roader, I just replaced both on my buddies 91 RS and it was cake. He bought them from Advanced Auto for $21 each. You don't even have to remove the shoes to just R&R the wheel cylinders. The brake lines were the toughest part of the job. On the Drivers side you have two brake lines going into it, loosen the top line first, then the bottom. Remove the two retaining bolts then whack the wheel cylinder with a rubber mallet a few times. Have a buddy hold out slightly on the shoes and the cylinder slides right up and out. I did both in about 40 minutes (25 minutes for the first, 15 for the second). When you do the passenger one, also remove the bleeder screw (both removing and installing).

I did my breaks including the front calipers and it was not difficult at all, yes it was a little messy but you will be fine with some card board, rags and some break cleaner.
Oh and some good gloves too, yea, yea; some of you don't but I hate the grease in my finger nails after all these are hands are also instruments of love and pleasure (Barry White background music). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

My rear left cylinder was leaking badly and the shoes were soacked completely. **See the before and after pics below**

For the fronts you have to remove the caliper and pump the break until the piston pups out (for this you will need something to collect the dripping oil), then clean everything thoroughly and using 1,000 grit sand paper and do the inside of the caliper and the piston.

You can use some water with the sand paper but make sure you dry the parts really good or use some kind of spirit to remove any oil or water spots to therefore prevent contamination.
Then, put the new seal in, rub some break oil inside the caliper and slide the piston in, DONE.

With the rear cylinder I used the same procedure and to install the O ring I as well rubbed some oil on it and it slided easily.

Oh yea, I painted everything so it look good. After all I probably spent about $30 which beats the $99 that some chains charge per side.

Pics:
Bad cylinder and the consequences:


After cylinder rebuilt


Javy

ROFL <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Who is actually going to listen to me if they've read my all-day block heater install thread! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cyclops.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Ok, all done! Went to the "Grasscat compound" & with his help and his neighbor Mike's help, it all went without a hitch although it looks like I'll be replacing the brake booster cause it's leaking as well (vacuum leak). <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I also took a bunch of pics and will document a full write-up/article for 4x4wire posterity! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Ray , somebody awhile back sugested getting the master cyl/booster off a M.Sport... Hopefully they'll see this and fill you in.

First I parked the monty on a flat spot at the Grasscat Compound.

I then put bricks on the front tires to stop them from rolling.

I then slightly loosened all the rear bolts just a couple of turns each.

We then raised the rear end up high enough to put a couple of jack stands under the rear axles.

Next we removed the rear tires and the brake drums (be sure your parking brake is off or you won't get the drums off) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

To remove the drums there are a couple of bolt holes in the drum (6mm x 1.5 bolts?). You can insert a pair of bolts into these holes and it makes the drum removal a bit easier than using a mallet/hammer to knock them off.

After the removal here's what we found inside the passenger side drum.


Notice the bubbled up paint in this picture which was caused by the leaking brake fluid. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />


Next we removed the two retaining springs on each brake shoe (number 1 in the 1st picture above).

Next we removed the top and bottom springs using a pair of needle nose vice grips (required to make the job 100% easier).

Afterwards the entire internal assembly came out. We simply laid them on a work table to fully disassemble, clean, and reassemble.

While Michael worked on the brake assembly I worked on removing the brake cylinder. I started by removing the brake lines in the back. You can see the passenger side line removed here.

You can also see the brake bleeding nipple.
The driver side has 2 lines instead of the nipple. This way you only need to bleed the brake on the passenger side and it bleeds the driver side brake as well.

The removal of the lines required a 10mm open end wrench. Don't use an adjustable wrench in order to minimize the possibility of rounding off the bolt.

Once the lines are disconnected you can unbolt the cylinder from the brake assembly via the 12mm bolt on each side of the cylinder.

Installation of the new cylinders is the same process just backwards. The passenger side one will again have the one brake line hole and a bleeder nipple while the driver side one will have 2 brake line holes.

Reassembly of the brake shoes can be quite tricky. The first thing to do is re-install the side springs into the brake housing.

First insert the rod into the while in the back of the housing and through the hole in one of the shoes.

Next place a inner (nickel sized) spring retaining clip onto the rod.

Next place the spring onto the rod.

Last (using the needle nose vice grips) place the final retaining clip onto the rod, compressing the spring and with a 1/4 turn set the assembly in place.

This process is alot trickier than it sounds so have some patience.

Also you'll need to do it 4x. Once for each shoe (2 shoes per side) so hopefully by the 4th one you'll have it down... we did.

After the retaining springs are in place the brake shoes should be pretty close to being properly lined up.

tbc...