I live in south Georgia so emmisions isn't priority one, my jeep is a weekend street legal play toy for the family, not a daily driver. Which hoses are mandintory to keep the stock 258 running? I know vaccum for distributor. Thanks for any help.

All of them are needed to keep the timing correct. Either a complete carb/dist changeout as in the nutter bypass or leave it all in there.
The damn thing is so touchy that pulling out the vac lines will cause the computer to RETARD the timeing and it ain't never coming back to where it should be...unless the complete nutter bypass is done.
Pulling off the vac lines will cause a loss of power and your engine will run HOT! Trust me on this...I have seen it several times. The correction is to replace the hoses or do that nutter bypass..
Big Jim <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I agree with Jim, it would cause more problems.

Why do you want to remove ths stuff anyways? What gains are you after?

not looking for gains, looking to get rid of junk I don't need, my jeep is for going out find a dirt road, if we find a mud hole play then drive it back home.

The air pump is MIA and I know that is needed, so I am looking to throw out all the emmision stuff to clean up the engine bay and have less to cause problems down the road. I am not looking to drive it 400 miles or anything, 20 or miles to local mud holes. Thanks for the info and help.

The air pump is the ONE THING that doesn't cause the computer to go nutz if you eleminate it... If you go throwing all that other stuff over your shoulder you WILL have problems. The NUTTER bypass must be done if any of the other parts are taken off.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the information, greatly appreciated.

So I have a question. My 2006 Sport just failed emissions because of a fault code which translated to "oxygen sensor circuit slow response." The check engine light stays on. Could the cause of this have been an incident a few days earlier when someone revved the engine really hard while trying to go uphill in a gear the driver said was too low (not too high!), and which caused a burning smell? Any insight here would be much appreciated.

Most likely the high revs didn't do anything unusual to the engine.
If you have a stick shift the smell was most likely the driver using the clutch when it shouldn't be used and the smell was from the friction of the clutch slipping. Also not unusual and rarely a problem in the future.
I have known guys that would drive OTHER PEOPLES vehicles in ways they wouldn't drive their OWN!!!
Big Jim
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Hi, Big Jim! It is a stick shift, could be the clutch,but I actually did burn out a "learner" clutch after many tries a long time ago, haha, and this smell seemed different. Not clutch, not brakes, not electrical. (I think the high rev was really a mistake here, by the way, not anyone overdoing). So is there anything else that could give off a burning smell?