What am I missing on tying down the rear suspension? I have yet to do that or the hard fuel lines but have done everything else. going to crawl under there tomorrow night to do the hard lines/c-channel mount, so I guess I will see why you have to do it but can"t think of a reason why that step is nescessary.

when you lift the body the suspension will move with it, so you would have to lift the body 4-5 inches maybe more just to get the body off the frame...

same idea when jacking up your truck to change a tire with a short jack <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />Man, that was too obvious. I was looking for something on the body/frame that it was nescessary to do that. Sometimes you just miss the forest for all the trees. Or a Homer would say; "DOH". Wait, actually I know why I missed that, I haven't slept in a Holiday Inn express lately.

It helps when it come to seperating the body from the suspension with out having to jack the body to much.

We just used a high lift and did one side at a time. We did have to lift it quite a bit to get enough separation to get the body blocks in.

What about steering? I assumed that something needs to be modified/loosened/shifted, etc for the 2"BL.
What about on a LWB?

Hopefully I'll be finally doing my lift at Christmas

Nothing needed for my SWB. The steering shaft in the engine bay is like a slip-yoke and it just slides out the little that is needed for the extra reach.

How long did the whole job take?

A body lift will take the better part of an afternoon. Mark and Myself did it in about 6-8 hours. Its not complicated, it is just time consuming. Keep in mind all the stuff you have to do:

-If desired, use electrical tape to cover body mounts turning them from bright white to black.
-Drain Radiator, disconnecting the one hose, and taking off the fan shroud.
-Pull back carpet to access the 4 mounts located in the truck.
-Remove tail lights to access 2 of the 4 on the rear.
-Remove rear bumper to access the other 2 on the rear.
-Strap up rear suspension.
-Remove plate hiding fuel tank filler hose, disconnect.
-Remove bolts attached to fuel line bracket.
-Loosen all bolts, remove washers/nuts but leave bolts in.
-Make sure parking brake is off, and walk around re-checking all bolts.
-Slowly lift the vehicle on one side, install half the lift blocks/bolts.
-Let vehicle down and lift other side, install other half of lift blocks/bolts.
-Let vehicle down and go around and tighten down bolts.
-Install new radiator hose, re-install upper fan shroud.
-Re-attach fuel filler hose for gas tank, re-install plate.
-Install c-channel space for fuel line bracket.
-Bolt/snap carpet back inside vehicle.
-Put tail-lights back in.
-Cut semi-circles in diamond plate of bumper, then re-attach rear bumper.
-Release straps attached to the rear axle/suspension.
-Cut slit in front of t-case shifter to help with 4-Low notch.
-Re-fill Radiator and let vehicle come up to temperature and check for leaks.
-Test Drive Vehicle, and clean up old bolts etc.

It is a lot of stuff to do, and it helps having a 2nd person when tightening/loosening bolts considering it takes a ratchet on the top and bottom.

I had a total of probably 8 hours in it, which included cutting and drilling the UMWH for the lift blocks. Using other peoples on here, it was pretty simple. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> I will get some pics today since I'm finally off and it is still light out.