Hi everyone I'm fixin to start a timing belt/water pump change on my 3.5L Montero LS after speaking with the parts guy at NAPA he stated that as soon as I releave tension on my timing belt my cams would snapp around and possible do some real damage and said I needed a tool to hold those cams in place. Is this true? if so could someone tell me where to get it, or is there another way? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone know of a guide for the 3.5L SOHC engine? I got the shop manuals but a part list would be cool of what I might need to change since I'm there already.
I've seen plenty in the archives but all seem to be 3.5L DOHC or the 3L SOHC engines.

He is right, the cams will do that, especially the pass side. It's happened to me more than once with no ill effects. I can't remember if the cam has a hex section on it (my other car does) to hold it, but in order to remove the valve covers a lot of other components must be removed. I didn't do this and it's not necessary IMO. You can't use the cam gear nuts to hold the cams because you need to remove the gears to replace the seals. The second time I replaced my TB, I just gently allowed the cams to rest where they wanted to using a wrench on the gear nut to guide them and prevent them from snapping round. Then I removed the cam gears. The pass side cam (if I remember rightly) really sits on a knife edge, in terms of wanting to snap back, when you line up the timing marks so be ready.

Make sure you get the tension right following the factory procedures. It can be a pain (spells and a wand help <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> ), but it needs to be right for obvious reasons.

Justice's procedure thread for the DOHC is the same on the SOHC, just 2 less cams and a shorter belt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If you don't know what was changed last time or ever, I would replace;

TB (Mitsu for me but others have used belts produced by Gates and Conti, I think)
hydraulic tensioner (Mitsu for sure)
tensioner puley (I'm running Dayco. 40k miles later no issues)
idler pulley (same as above)
water pump (Mitsu will last 120k miles, aftermarket I would replace after 60k. I just replace the factory pump each time anyway as it's just not worth the hassle of changing it if it goes before 120k miles)
cam and crank seals
crank bolt (Mitsu. New factory design)
accessory belts and idlers

It's not cheap, but a lot cheaper than a new engine.

I may have forgotten something, but someone will chime in if I have.

You can remove the radiator fan and shroud together without removing the radiator, but having the radiator out the way does give you a bit more room and this would be a good time to have it cleaned if needed. The AC condenser bolts are best got at through the d/s wheel well. I didn't know this the first time I changed my TB and it was a royal pain in the <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> . Later, I lifted the wheel well rubber flap and there they were...doh!

Also, if you are planning on changing the valve guide seals don't think of them as a 'while I'm in there' doing the TB job. The cams do not need to to removed to change the valve guide seals and the job can be done without touching the TB. I learned that the hard way too <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Good luck. Take your time and be sure the set the belt tensioner right. It's good to have some other people with 3.5L SOHC engines wrenching on their trucks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks I appreciate it. I've got everything removed except the Crank pulley and am doing that today. Doing a lot of calling around town pricing parts, I'm a licensed dealer so I get a discount at the Mitsu stealer...lets hope they got what I need. I didn't take photos breaking it down but I will as I'm rebuilding.

So what are you saying? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> I could use some OEM parts on discount.

If you align the cam / crank gears with their timing marks, they shouldn't go pop and move.

Don't forget the o-ring on the backside of the water pump. Not all aftermarket pumps come with it. NO NOT REUSE THE ONE THAT'S ON.

Like the above said, just make sure you have it all lined up and they shouldnt snap. Just be real careful not to move them much when you are putting the new belt on.

Thanks for the tips, keep them coming. I'm still debating whether or not to make a crank pulley tool or buying one(it's still on) and I'm not rushed to finish.

As to the WP gasket/O-ring, does OEM come with it? Or do you guys know of a parts manual online so I can get the PN's?

Lastly, I get a discount from the dealer's mark-up of their parts and I don't pay tax on them...you can still get discounted OEM parts from some online stores so getting them thru me wouldn't help you; i.e. shipping and my effort(sry). The only reason I mentioned it was that some people recommend OEM unless price were an object but I can get OEM for almost as much as after-market. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Can't recall on the o-ring coming with OEM WP. I am in the aftermarket pump, changed with every belt mode. I know the o-ring definitely has its own OEM PN as I have bought them. I have Mistu's ASA parts software that you can download.

Thanks bro...that ought to come in handy. OEM WP does come with the O-ring, some after-market do too but not all.
Finally getting around to making my crank pulley holder tool. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />