I have been getting a few emails about my dual case set up. Here is the link that works to my pics web page

Thanks for posting that up, Troy <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> So is the front case a fixed-yolk unit? The last picture looks like it (because the rearmost part looks different than my slip-yolk t-case). I'd imagine that would affect the amount of machining needed. The slip-yolk cases have a large tube covering the output shaft that will likely need lopped off and a solution found for sealing it up as the OEM seal is at the back of said large tube. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

for the sake of completeness, link to my dual tcase pics.

yea sean, that is a fixed yoke case. With my project, I actually had both at my disposal. I don't recall the seal being a problem with either, but I choose the fixed yoke due to the shorter snout more material/surface area since I was welding my adapter plate to it.

you can see the difference in the two covers here:
http://www.zu4x.com/albums/album12/IMG_0140.jpg

-Rob

Looks like 4-5"... which would make a big difference on a stubby Amigo wheelbase. If Isuzu didn't use a different number of dog teeth on slip vs fixed ( <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> ), I'd just get a fixed-yolk case and swap the back end onto mine. Unfortunately, doing so would require buying a new set of Tera Lows which isn't going to happen. I need to pull the back half of my case off again sometime and see how far up the output shaft is splined. If they're far enough, one could potentially lop off a good portion of the snout and just cut down the rear output shaft to match what's needed to mate up to the married case.

You could just swap all the guts and back half of the case from the auto case onto your manual and put the tera's in the auto case with the slip yoke back half of the t case.

I don't know how much that would save me since there would still be a full-length slip-yolk snout on one case... may actually be marginally longer if the alternative is lopping off part of the snout for the forward case. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> But I'm getting ahead of myself. I need to disassemble some stuff and take measurements. I have a spare transmission to tool around with. It just happens to still be in the truck, sitting in the woods at the end of the property line, probably in 6" of mud given the amount of rainfall we've had this week. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/oink.gif" alt="" /> Hindsight being 20/20, maybe I should have pulled that BEFORE cutting the truck in half and dragging it out to the woods with a tractor <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Did either of you guys consider/attempt "clocking" the back case up at all? The front output portion is really the only thing that hangs down below the frame much on Isuzus. I can see clearance between the driveshaft and the front case being a potential issue; but it'd be a nice bonus if it was possible.

I think I briefly considered clocking the case, but it really wasn't an option for me in terms of driveshaft clearance. as things are now, my front shaft will kiss the case on total compression. maybe if your suspension travel was more limited and you cut the case for the smaller stock idler gear (i have tera's)... just maybe. I also think clocking the case would make you have to get a little more creative with the shift linkage.

but, even as my setup stands, the case doesn't hang that low. while I can't run a flush to the frame rails belly skid, my cases are plenty protected by the crossmembers and only hang a few inches below the frame, so its been pretty acceptable to me.

-Rob

Planning on this (for now) with the IFS... so its pretty limited <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> The retubed HP44 with chromo shafts, CTM's, Detroit and 5.38's just looks so nice sitting in the corner of the barn year after year I'd hate to ruin things by actually putting it under my truck. For the added clearance issues and complexity, I doubt I'll pursue clocking and just make a really sturdy skid plate.

In regards to cooling, what are your opinions on getting a radiator from an auto and plumbing in the front case for cooling in the same manner as an auto tranny? Maybe even add another tranny cooler in-line for extra surface area. Only thing is it wouldn't add much in terms of extra fluid capacity. Possibly a combo of that idea and what you guys have done with sharing fluid between the tranny and front case would be enough to keep things streetable <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I was talking to someone through email who was thinking about plumbing in the largest remote power steering reservoir he could find to add fluid capacity.

I had always considered a tranny cooler or something to the effect of, but had wondered if the circulation would be enough to take advantage of such a thing, or if you would have to combine it with an electric pump to get enough circulation. many i talked to questioned if the extra capacity of the system would be enough to change temperatures.

basically, I think you have many ways of dealing with the problem... it will be a bit of try and see what works. I was heading this route, but it became less important to me when my rig no longer saw street use.

-Rob