The Amigo got retired from DD duties about 6 months ago; but keeping it streetable is still a major focus. I'd like to still be able to drive to/from the trails, back and forth to work when we get 12" of snow overnight, and drive it on the weekends as I see fit.

I got the tranny pulled from my parts truck last night; and just got in tonight from power washing it and putting it on an engine stand. My intention is to do this project on the "spare" tranny and then drop and swap with the current tranny when the time comes. I'm doing it this way because its probably going to take me 6 months of doing a little here and there to complete it and I don't want my 'Migo out of commission that long. The joy of a parts truck is that preserving the body is a non-issue. Just flop it 90* to get to all of the bolts:



And another 90* for the final pull:



<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

That appears to only be 1/2 a parts truck. Nice hoist!

The 1/2 I cut off is inside of the cab... so I guess its sort of still whole. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


Rob/Troy, did you guys cut the threaded portion off of the rear output of the front case? None of your pictures appear so; but it seems like it bottoms out in the end of the input collar of the rear case. Removing it should allow additional spline engagement as well as bring the two cases an inch or so closer, thereby closing the gap up. As it stands now, the adapter plate will need to be over an inch thick!

Also, any particular grade of aluminum you used to block off the hole after removing the front output portion of the front case? Thanks for allowing me to pick your brains <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Had a few hours today for preliminary work. Got the tranny somewhat clean (much cleaner than it was!) and on the engine stand:



Then got the t-case gutted in preparation for cutting. Doing this on an engine stand comes with some novelty as I can rotate the entire assembly.



Once the case is cut and hole blocked off, I am going to swap in the guts of one of the fixed-yolk cases. I found two of them in Illinois for $47 apiece!



Of course, things go more smoothly when you have good help

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Lookin' good! And good score on the fixed-yoke cases--can't believe you found a pair for $47/each.

More pictures when you can, please!

Is this mod-box going to be a dual w/single Tera-Low or a dual with dual Tera-Low? Hmmm...let me contemplate the math!

HERE is the link to the album. It'll get thinned out to be more concise once all is said and done.

It'll be one Revolution/Tera case and one stock case in the interest of variety. Trying to choose between 20 different forward gears and 4 different reverse gears will be way more entertaining than 15 and 3 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'll do a write-up on the local board when I'm completely done. I wasn't doing it right away because there will be several lengthy intermissions in the project (especially once climbing season starts) and I don't want people heckling me for updates... and by people, I mean John <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

No, i used the output shaft "as is". i don't remember spline engagement being an issue. My adapter plate is aproximately an inch thick.



6061 if i recall.

-Rob

Closing the gap is more a priority to me than anything. The comment on spline engagement was just an aside. I am not set up to weld aluminum; so I am going about the adapter in a different way. I intend to make a 'bird cage' that bolts to the backside of the front part of the rear 1/2 of the case (confused yet?) on one end and has an adapter that bolts to the 2nd case on the other end. I think it will help with rigidity to have that part slip-fit over the snout on the front case... but doing so requires either bringing the two cases closer together or using 2" thick steel. I'd rather bring the cases closer to one another <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I do intend to make a second crossmember to support the second case which utilizes a stock tranny mount; so that should take a good portion of the stress off of the adapter to where is handles mainly torsional forces and little in terms of weight-bearing.

I think Troy took a similar approach to avoid welding the adapter place to his case as I did. I think his adapter was steel and 'attached' to the front case, rather than being welded.

-Rob

I have something similar but different planned. I'm going to make a ring like this for the front case:



Then an adapter plate like you made for the rear case (only in 3/8 or 1/2" steel):



Only instead of having it welded on the end of the case, I'm going to use the plasma cutter to cut the shape of the "snout" of the married case into the adapter so it is a tight slip fit onto the snout.

Then I'll bend 4-5 pieces of 3/8" x 1.5" steel strap to connect the two... as shown is this really really poor MS Paint drawing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />