Do you know you have play in these bearings? I had about 150K miles on mine (almost all of which were lifted miles) when I changed my ball joints, tie rods, etc. I did it while trying to eliminate some annoying play somewhere and knowing I had a lot of hard miles on all of it. I really don't think my upper and lower ball joints were that worn but I did find that the pivot points of my front lower control arms had a lot of play. If/when you change the lower ball joints, you should also dig a little deeper and see if you have play at the lower control arms. That's where the mystery wear was for me that caused alignment shops to complain to me that there's something loose in the system. Unfortunately you have to replace the entire lower control arms since those bushings are not considered replaceable by themselves. Also, the steering rack needs to be partially removed to get to the bolts that hold the lower control arms in place, which can potentially be a PITA. One of the nuts for a steering rack bolt that was factory-welded inside the frame broke off when I tried to remove my original steering rack. Fun fun.

Getting the rear axle bearings replaced wasn't much fun either because the "experienced" shop I took them to pressed one side on too far, which didn't allow the axle seal to properly touch the ring that gets pressed onto the axle last. If you have ABS, before you start the bearing replacement process, take out the ABS sensors on the back side of the rear axle and make a mental note of where the ABS tone ring is visible through that hole (side to side where it's positioned). After you get the bearings replaced and pressed back on the axle, make sure it is roughly in the same place as before so you know they didn't mess up by not pressing it on far enough or too far.


Jeff
2000 4Runner SR5, supercharger, rear e-locker, ARB front locker, 285/75R16 MT/R's, custom bumpers & skids
2007 Tacoma double cab 4x4 - stock