I'm back...
I've thought of putting cranks in <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I've found it is usually dirty contacts in these complicated little switches with the tiny springs, etc.
Even if they don't look dirty,,,,a varishlike oxidation will stop them ,,, and it's usually when trying to go up. I've taken mine apart ,alot, and done on a beach towel on the floor so I can find the small parts that go "BING". Then I use 'Electric Contact Cleaner' spray can of no residue contact cleaner from a good parts or electronic store.

I have had a couple actually partially crack across the springy part of the contact. That weak spring will not allow for the switching of polarity that goes on when you push on that seesaw switch. In this case call on "Russ the source"
Mines a 2 door so I have easily oversimplified my system by doing away with the drivers door Master Switch and brain and just have a switch on each door that contols only that door, seperate cuircuit for each door. Doing this won't be easy on a 4 door.
I usually nab good clean little used switches from the back passenger doors of 4 doors when I run across them to keep extras around for the next cracked switch.


dave h.
'89 Raider V6 5spd;Aisin Hubs;; Gen2 LS: frt. brakes, rear coils;U.C.arms;R.trailing arms;idler arm; rear LSD axle w.disc brakes ;2 battery system for Dog's fan; relocated ECU; custom bumpers;J.Baker receiver;Conferr roofrack; t-bar crank.